Taste
should not be gender-specific. Good food and drink are enjoyed by any,
and there shouldn't be "manly" drinks and "girly" drinks - but there
are. There are a few reasons for this:
-
Generally, women taste things differently than men - they tend to be
more sensitive to flavour, particularly bitter. Because of this
sensitivity, women often have more distinguished palates. (Again, this
is a generalization, but scientific research does support it).
-
In western culture, the woman was seen as the weaker sex and therefore
shouldn't be enjoying the same things men do, such as strong drink. This
is particularly true for cocktails in the first half of the twentieth
century when many a book and magazine told women what they should be
drinking in order to be a proper and all-around good lady. These drinks
were colourful and sweeter.
In
the dark ages of bartending (the 1970's-1990's) the above points were
interpreted into drinks involving copious amounts of sugar, artificial
colour, drinks with 'feminine' names, and a lot of vodka so as to
further disguise the taste of alcohol. Many of the classics had both
pretty colours and names but also happened to be great drinks, and
strong ones at that. These cocktails were not gender-specific, or often
started as a "gentleman's drink" (see the Clover Club) before becoming
popular amongst the female folk, likely due to the media and populace
deciding that a pink drink should be for a woman.
For
this list, I'm taking inspiration from the 1920's to 1940's in
particular, when men were gentlemen and women were ladies, and there
were excellent drinks on both sides to be enjoyed by all. Should you
wish to drink like a fancy lady of the time, below are some classic
suggestions.
Clover Club
This
light and pink drink predates Prohibition when it was enjoyed by the
members of the Philadelphia men's club of the same name. By the 1930's,
it had lost popularity, and 1949's "Handbook for Hosts" from Esquire
placed it in the "something for the girls" section. If made properly
this drink can be drier than expected, using fresh raspberries and not
artificial liqueurs or commercial sweeteners. The Okanagan Spirits
liqueur is an excellent substitution for real raspberry, tasting both
dry and natural. If using a home-made raspberry syrup, bump up the gin
and juice or lower the sugar amount. Below is the recipe from Pourhouse
in Vancouver, which is fairly close to the recipe of old:
1.5oz London Dry gin
0.5oz fresh lemon juice
0.5oz simple syrup
0.5oz Okanagan Spirits Raspberry Liqueur
1 egg white
Combine ingredients and dry-shake. Then add ice and shake again. Strain into a cocktail coupe.
French 75
A
refreshing start to your evening, particularly a celebratory one due to
the addition of sparkling wine. As with any drink, it should be made
dry so as to awaken your palate and if so it makes an excellent
aperitif. Created in 1915 by Harry MacElhone at the New York Bar in
Paris, it was named after the WWI French 75mm field gun - which “packed
quite a punch." German officers famously order it at Humphrey Bogart's
bar in 1942's "Casablanca." Cocktail historian David Wondrich suggests
increasing the gin to 2oz and serving over ice in a Collins glass. While
this tastes better, I prefer the drink in more elegant attire. Here is
the Savoy Cocktail Book recipe from 1930:
2/3 gin [1oz]
1/3 lemon juice [0.5oz]
1 teaspoon powdered sugar [0.5oz simple syrup]
Shake
ingredients with ice and strain into a Champagne glass or cocktail
coupe, then top with chilled Champagne or a dry sparkling wine (Brut).
Sidecar
This
cocktail's origins are of some dispute, as so many are, but while the
Ritz Hotel in Paris claims its birthplace, there are earlier and more
reputable sources that differ. Harry MacElhone's 1922 cocktail book
"Harry's ABC of Mixing Cocktails" gives credit to Pat MacGarry at Buck's
Club in London some time after WWI. It was named after the motorcycle
sidecar in which an American army captain was driven to the Paris bistro
where the drink was created for him. It is essentially a Brandy Daisy, a
style of drink dating to the mid 19th century. There are several
recipes, namely the "French school" which has each ingredient at equal
parts, and the "London school," which has 2:1:1 brandy to liqueur to
lemon. David Embury's very influential "The Fine Art of Mixing Drinks"
in 1948 recommends 8:2:1. I like my drinks dry, and below is my go-to
recipe. Avoid the sugar rim, a practice that popped up in the 1930's and
is both sticky and unnecessary. This drink is fruity but boozy and
perfect for an elegant lady who has come in from the cold. It also happens to be Cointreau's signature drink, a liqueur represented by the fanciest lady alive today: Dita Von Teese.
2oz Cognac or other brandy
0.5oz Cointreau
0.5oz lemon juice
Shake ingredients with ice and strain into a cocktail coupe.
Champagne Cocktail
In
the 19th century this drink was one of the very first variations on the
“cock-tail,” a combination of spirit, sugar, water, and bitters.
Embellishments were inevitable, and the best of them is likely the
addition of brandy (technically making this a “Brandy Champagne
Cocktail”). Adding this extra punch to the equation balances the sugar
much better. This cocktail has shown up in both literature and film,
most famously in 1957’s “An Affair To Remember” with Cary Grant and
Deborah Kerr, and again in “Casablanca.” Don’t skimp on the bitters, and
be sure to use a very dry sparkling wine lest the drink be cloyingly
sweet.
1 raw sugar cube
Several dashes of aromatic bitters (Angostura)
1oz Cognac or other brandy (optional)
Champagne or dry sparkling wine
Drop
the sugar into a Champagne coupe or glass and soak it in the bitters.
Pour in the brandy, then top with the wine. Garnish with a lemon twist.
Arsenic and Old Lace
This
one is a little more obscure, but perfectly fit for a classic lady in
that it’s floral, light purple in colour, and dry. Descending from the
pre-Prohibition Attention Cocktail, this one hails from the 1940’s and
was considerably more dry. Modern recipes for both are basically the
same, with the Attention having the addition of orange bitters, which
makes for a more interesting drink with a less interesting name. The
name comes from the black comedy play from 1939 which was later adapted
by Frank Capra into a film starring Cary Grant. The story revolves
around a drama critic who tries to protect his homicidal aunts who like
to murder old men with poisoned elderberry wine. The recipe below
changes the classic one by reducing 0.5oz of pastis to an absinthe
rinse. Absinthe makes the flavour more complex, but is more potent than
pastis and can overwhelm the drink so no more than a rinse is necessary.
It employs crème de violette, an ingredient lost for decades until a
few years ago. The quality of this violet flower liqueur will determine
the overall quality of this drink, so be sure to avoid overly perfumey
artificial ones and to balance accordingly.
1.5oz gin
0.5oz dry vermouth
0.25-0.5oz crème de violette
Absinthe rinse
Rinse
a cocktail coupe with absinthe by pouring a little into the glass and
spinning so it coats the inside before discarding the excess. Stir gin,
vermouth, and violette with ice, and strain into the coupe. Garnish with
a lemon twist and express the oils over the top of the drink.
Next post (which you can see here) I'll be sharing another five classic cocktails for a lady, then we'll get into those for the gentlemen.
[The science of taste and intoxication and how they relate to gender can be found in the science section of this site.]
Love these!
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