Halloween Cocktails: "Dark City" by Jay Jones

As we get closer to Halloween, our cocktails will begin to get darker, scarier, and bloodier. Today's contributor is Mr. Jay Jones from Market by Jean-Georges at the Shangri-La Hotel in Vancouver. The drink is in his simple but powerful style, yielding a very dark, almost black cocktail intended to end your evening. Jay introduces it himself:

"Newfound fondness for Knob Creek 9 year old 'Single Barrel Reserve' Bourbon (not to be confused with its more commonly known 9 year old 'small batch' brother) led me to spend some quality time considering its cocktail possibilities. [It's] a truly spectacularly bold whiskey of richness and fortitude - the 60% abv beast requires colleagues with equally substantial attributes. Although the taste profile is somewhat of a punch in the mouth, it is not without smoothness and balance. It simply asserts itself rather firmly. Fernet Branca seemed to be up to the pairing task - continuing the dark depths of the bourbon's tobacco, tar and spice characteristics. The essential amaro's inimitable traits are obvious in the final Cocktail, yet still serve as supporting cast to the bourbon's dominant and defining role. The structure becomes more complex and mingles concentrated herb tastes into a lengthy finish. Giffard continues as my liqueur brand of choice. Their Muroise du Val de Loire is a seductive and ripe foil to the angry assets of bourbon and amaro. (Muroise is a hybrid berry, forged with blackberry and raspberry). While its sweetness and natural flavours tone down the other two brutes, its beautiful deep blue/purple hue adjusts the previously dark amber blend into a unique colour which seems black but yields indigo when the light catches it right. Orange zest softens the drinkers first approach by the suggestion of refreshing citrus - a subtle touch with large impact on the whole personality of the complete cocktail.
The name, 'Dark City,' refers to the 1998 neo-noir sci-fi film of same name, but also makes a general emotional suggestion of the tone of the drink, suited to the end of a dim, cold night in downtown Vancouver.

It's aggressive, dark and virile. A closer - intended to finish you off."

Dark City

1.5 oz Knob Creek 9 year old Single Barrel Reserve Kentucky Straight Bourbon

0.5oz Fernet Branca

0.5oz Giffard Muroise du Val de Loire

Zest of Orange Peel

Method:

1. combine all liquid ingredients in a stirring vessel

2. load to just above liquid height with large ice cubes - scatter with cracked ice cubes

3. stir consistently at a medium pace for 20 rotations

4. fine strain contents into a room temperature rocks glass

5. fill to glass height with large ice cubes

6. zest drink's surface with fresh orange peel - discard spent peel

You can check out Jay's previous contributions to this site here:

"The Four Horsemen" for Amaro April

"The Jaguar" for the Bittered Sling Extracts Series

Stay tuned for more holiday drinks...

The Fall Series:

You can see the series introduction here
and more terrible Halloween cocktails here
"Death & Oranges" by Donnie Wheeler
"Jones' Bitter Aperitif" by Evelyn Chick 
"The Satchmo" by Simon Ogden 
Classic Halloween Cocktails
"The Giant Huntsman" by Lauren Mote
"The Bay Harbour Butcher" by Shaun Layton  
"A Nightmare On Juniper Street" by Shea Hogan 

[[ Photo by Jay Jones ]]

Fall Cocktails: "Death & Oranges" by Donnie Wheeler

To kick things off for this fall series we are heading to Vancouver for a delicious pumpkin cocktail from Mr. Donnie Wheeler. He brings over fifteen years of experience in hospitality, bartending, and consulting for the likes of Cin Cin, Legacy Liquor, Corner Suite Bistro, and Donnelly Group bars Killjoy and Clough Club. Known to many in Vancouver as Donnie Bahama or Mr. Tiki, he runs Tiki Tuesdays at Clough Club (where each week they feature new drinks from Jeff "Beachbum" Berry's books), as well as giving seminars on Tiki history and culture at Legacy and festivals like The Art of the Cocktail.

Donnie is sharing a perfect example of a seasonal and themed cocktail that is both tasteful and tasty. (Apologies for the lateness on the Thanksgiving theme). I will let him introduce it himself:

"As it is Thanksgiving, [the drink] should be about family... in this case the Corleone family from the Godfather films. In the films every major death is preceded by an appearance of an orange in one way or another. [SPOILER ALERT]
Don Corleone buys oranges right before he is shot and falls into an orange cart. Sonny drives past an advertisement for Florida Oranges before he is assassinated. At the Mafioso summit, bowls of oranges are placed on the tables - specifically in front of those Dons who will be assassinated. Michael eats an orange while discussing his plans with Tom. Before Don Corleone dies he puts an orange peel in his mouth to playfully scare his grandson. The list goes on. So, the cocktail is a little morbid, a little seasonal, and about family."

Death & Oranges

1oz Carpano Antica Formula Italian Vermouth
1oz Campari
1.5oz fresh squeezed blood orange juice (seasonal)
1-2 tablespoons pumpkin puree-infused honey syrup
2 dashes Fernet Branca
Combine ingredients with ice and shake. Strain over crushed ice.
Top with soda water (optional).

Pumpkin/Honey Syrup: 
Add 2 parts honey and 2 parts water and bring to a boil. Add 1 part of pumpkin puree and stir until mixed.

[[ Photo by Donnie Wheeler ]]

The Fall Cocktail Series
 You can see the series introduction here
and more terrible Halloween cocktails here
"Jones' Bitter Aperitif" by Evelyn Chick
"The Satchmo" by Simon Ogden  
"Dark City" by Jay Jones
Classic Halloween Cocktails
"The Giant Huntsman" by Lauren Mote
"The Bay Harbour Butcher" by Shaun Layton  
"A Nightmare On Juniper Street" by Shea Hogan 

Amaro Digestivos

Let's take a look at some of the most popular amaro digestivos, which are amari to be enjoyed after a meal to aid digestion (this is for the most part a tradition, but because of all the herbs involved, you'd be surprised at how a little Fernet can really calm your stomach).
The most traditional way to have a digestivo in Italy, and this includes grappa, is to enjoy it alongside an espresso or coffee after the meal, and in some cases, even pour your amaro into your empty coffee cup to combine a bit of the flavours. I like to enjoy mine in a small liqueur glass just neat, but some of more bitter amari are actually really refreshing afternoon or aperitivo drinks with some ice or soda (I most often drink my Fernet with a hefty splash of soda).

The most popular and available brands in North America are Averna, Montenegro, Fernet Branca, and Ramazzotti (there are numerous others you can find here, and hundreds more you'll find in Italy, but I have to narrow it down. For more examples of what to buy, including some prices, check out this post on buying amaro in B.C.).

Averna Amaro was created by monks, as is often the case in France and Italy, in Sicily in the tradition of Csitercian and Cluniac convents. In 1859 the recipe of herbs for infusion with alcohol was passed on to Salvatore Averna, who was both a Judge Peach and a benefactor of the Convent of St. Spirito's Abbe in Caltanisetta. By 1868, Averna had started his own production of the recipe for houseguests and friends. His son, Francesco, took the recipe and presented it at other monestaries and friars throughout Europe, and by 1895 even presented it to the king. In 1912, Averna became the offical supplier of amaro to the royal household in Italy, and after the early death of Francesco, his wife carried on the legacy until his sons again took over and finally began to export their product to America. By the late 1950's, production had become big enough to sustain a large business, and in another twenty years, Averna became one of the most popular amari in Europe. Averna as a company expanded to produce wine and grappa, but it's biggest product and legacy is that of its amaro. It has a dense but smooth taste, combining herbs, roots, citrus, which are steeped in a neutral alcohol base (likely grappa, but again, I don't have confirmation) before a natural caramel is added. Averna on the rocks is a very suitable aperitivo, but typically is consumed neat as a digestivo. It has a high alcohol content for typical amari (32%), and has a fairly heavy, thick, dark, slightly bitter taste, balanced by a sweet vanilla and caramel, making it excellent for a post-meal drink. I often drink it neat at the end of the night, and so should you - it's an excellent starting point for digestivos.

Amaro Montenegro has a somewhat different beginning, as it was produced in 1885in Bologna by an already established spirit manufacturer by the name of Stanislao Cobianchi. He infused a neutral spirit with many combinations of herbs from his travels all over the world before finally settling on the perfect recipe (supposedly after many sleepless nights), and named it in honour of the marriage of Victor Emmanuel III to the second queen of Italy, Princess Elena of Montenegro. The producer claims it to be the top-selling brand in Italy, though I've seen no confirmation of this (yet I have seen numerous claims that Fernet is the top-selling amaro in and out of Italy). The aroma and flavour bring a fair amount of orange peel, along with coriander, red cherry, pekoe tea, cucumber, and other more bitter but subtle components. It is most popular alongside a coffee or espresso, as is the most traditional Italian way.


Amaro Ramazzotti dates back further than any other I've found, to 1815, when Ausano Ramazzotti perfected his recipe in Milan, and sold and shared it as the expected medicinal tonic - supposedly the first Italian bitter liqueur. It wasn't until 30 years later, when Ausano opened up a cafe and started liberally serving his amaro that it started to become popular, and in 1848, he opened a bar next to the new La Scala theatre, where he served Ramazzotti instead of coffee as a digestivo. The business carried on through the family, production and sales grew, especially during WWI, when it became one of the first advertising campaigns, calling itself "the King of aperitifs." The demand continued to grow through the 50's, when a new, much larger factory was built, and again in the 70's, when an even larger factory was built. In the 80's, it was bought by the Pernod Ricard group, increasing its advertising and brand even further, and it became a socialite rage to sip Ramazzotti in Milan. The recipe includes 33 different herbs and spices, in particular orange peel, cardamom, myrrh, galangal, and cinnamon, and tastes quite similar to traditional cola. It's slightly weaker in flavour and proof than Averna, and I find it might be an even easier starting point.

For information on Fernet, check out the posts I did during Fernet February.

Now that we've discussed aperitivos, digestivos, where and what to buy, we can move on to some original cocktails from some talented bartenders...

[[ See my post on amaro aperivos here ]]
[[ See a buying guide for amaro here ]]

[[ See "The One Hit Wonder" from L'abattoir in Vancouver here ]]
[[ See "The Penny Farthing" from Pourhouse here ]]
[[ See an introduction to amaro  here ]]
[[ See "The Imperial Eagle" from Bourbon & Branch here ]]
[[ See "Sevilla" from Beretta here ]]
[[ See "Fallow Grave" from the Toronto Temperance Society here ]]
[[ See "The Black Prince" from Phil Ward here ]]
[[ See "Bad Apple" and "Jackson Ward" from Amor y Amargo here ]]
[[ See "The Four Horsemen" from Jay Jones at Shangri-La here ]]
[[ See Colin MacDougall from Blue Water Cafe here ]]
[[ See "Debbie Don't" from Dutch Kills here ]]
[[ See "Welcome to the Dark Side" from Cin Cin here ]]
[[ See "Foolish Games" from Russell Davis here ]]
[[ See "Intro To Aperol" from Audrey Saunders at Pegu Club here ]] 

Amaro Part 2: Buying Amaro in B.C.

Now that we've taken a brief look at what exactly amaro is, let's take a look at buying it in B.C. While some are actually cheaper here than in the States (well, Washington at least), others are only available at specialty stores where you'll still be paying a lot more, but if you're Canadian, you're used to it. Below I will list the types available to us here in Canada, which are the more popular types you will see in craft cocktail bars. If you're looking to buy for your home bar, Legacy is the place to go, unless you have time to visit Seattle (I've listed both prices so you can compare).

Averna - from Sicily, originally made in 1868 by a man of the same name. Herbs, roots, and citrus are soaked in a neutral spirit, then caramel is added and is bottled at 64 proof. It will run you $48 at Legacy in Vancouver, or $34 or less in the States.
Aperol - bright orange-colour, orange and rhubarb flavour, slightly bitter, low-proof (see my post on The Petruchio), aperitivo. This is the best starting point if you don't know amaro very well, or don't have a taste for bitter. $22 in the B.C. government liquor store, and $25 in Washington (woot!).
Campari - vibrant red colour, citrus and cinchona flavours, quite bitter (see my post on The Americano), aperativo. $27 in the government stores here, and $33 in Washington (woot again!).
Cynar - made from 13 herbs and plants, including artichoke, and bottled at 33 proof. Launched in 1952 and currently owned and distributed by the Campari group. $38 at Legacy, but only $27 in Washington.
Fernet - very bitter, 80-proof or higher (see my post from Fernet February), made in Lombardia. This will run you $30 in both Washington and B.C.
Lucano - fairly bitter using 37 herbs. $40 at Legacy, and not available to Washington stores (score another for Canada!).
Montenegro - from Bologna in the late 1800's, made from over 40 herbs and bottled at 46 proof, strong orange flavour. $44 at Legacy, $30 in Washington.
Nardini - mainly a grappa producer dating back to the late 1700's, they also produce a fairly light and minty amaro. You won't be able to find this in Canada, but can pick it up in Washington for only $28.
Nonino - grappa-based with very herbal but sweet flavour. $50 in Canada, but in the States you can find it for $24.
Ramazzotti - from Milan, bottled at 60 proof, flavour similar to traditional cola. $34 at Legacy, and $29 in Washington.

There are other less popular ones you can get in the Wasington stores like Santa Maria Genova (which is really light and tasty - another good starting point), Abano, and Rabarbaro Zucca, all in the $30-40ish range. I'm sure there are other states and cities, such as San Francisco, where you can find more, because you always can. 

The most typical way to enjoy an amaro is just neat in a liqueur glass after a meal, but often some are suggested to be drunk with soda water and an orange or lemon twist, or on the rocks, again with said twist. No matter how you enjoy it, an amaro is a perfect digestivo, or a perfect ending to an evening of drinking.

I'll be back soon with some information on aperitivo amari, specifically Campari and Aperol.

[[ See my post on amaro digestivos here ]]
[[ See my post on amaro aperivos here ]]
[[ See "The One Hit Wonder" from L'abattoir in Vancouver here ]]
[[ See "The Penny Farthing" from Pourhouse here ]]
[[ See an introduction to amaro  here ]]
[[ See "The Imperial Eagle" from Bourbon & Branch here ]]
[[ See "Sevilla" from Beretta here ]]
[[ See "Fallow Grave" from the Toronto Temperance Society here ]]
[[ See "The Black Prince" from Phil Ward here ]]
[[ See "Bad Apple" and "Jackson Ward" from Amor y Amargo here ]]
[[ See "The Four Horsemen" from Jay Jones at Shangri-La here ]]
[[ See Colin MacDougall from Blue Water Cafe here ]]
[[ See "Debbie Don't" from Dutch Kills here ]]
[[ See "Welcome to the Dark Side" from Cin Cin here ]]
[[ See "Foolish Games" from Russell Davis here ]]
[[ See "Intro To Aperol" from Audrey Saunders at Pegu Club here ]] 

The Toronto Cocktail

So, here we are at the end of Fernet February. Some of you might be saying "thank god," but I learned a lot about balancing powerful flavours, and it's been a ton of fun touring around Vancouver tasting new originals. It's also been fun seeing how excited so many skilled barmen, barwomen, and mixologists (whatever they prefer) are about Fernet as an ingredient. Out of the 10 bars in this series, 5 of them wanted to contribute because they "love Fernet."
I really hope to do another one of these series in an upcoming month, so please if you're reading, look to the top right of this blog page and vote on what ingredient you'd like to see in the next series!!

We'll cap things off with a classic cocktail, this time hailing from New York in the late 1940' - The Toronto.

[[ I am editing this a few month's later now to make some historical clarifications. At Tales of the Cocktail this year (2012), four B.C. bartenders will be presenting on four Canadian cocktails - The Caesar, The Vancouver, The Hotel Georgia, and The Toronto. This prompted me to track down who was working on it and engage in a little discussion being of the mind that it is not a Canadian drink. The man presenting it, the man behind the bar at Clive's Classic Lounge in Victoria, Shawn Soole, gave me some great info:
 - David Embury's publication does call for "Canadian Whisky," when I was under the impression that it called for simply "rye whiskey," which in 1940's New York would have meant straight American rye. 
 - Shawn informed me that the Italian population boomed in Toronto in the 1920's, and of course they would have brought things like amaro with them - to which I argued that the same happened in New York quite a while before that, and that there was also an influx of Canadian whisky to New York in the 1920's (Prohibition), so nothing can be pinpointed here. This could just as easily explain Embury's recipe being from New York as him finding it via Toronto. 

Here's what ultimately finishes the debate:
 - Shawn and Solomon Siegel tracked down the 1922 publication of "Cocktails and How To Mix Them," finding mention of a "Fernet Cocktail," with Cognac or rye whiskey, Fernet, gum syrup or sugar, and Angostura bitters, with a lemon peel garnish. Underneath the recipe is written "this cocktail is much appreciated by the Canadians of Toronto." Being a good twenty years earlier than Embury's book, this is definitely the winning argument in naming the Toronto as a Canadian cocktail. Interesting, though, that Cognac is listed first, with the suggestion of just "rye whiskey," which brings me right back to my original thought that the intention was not to use Canadian whisky. Robert Vermeire, the book's author, is from London and published his book there, so the use of the word "rye" would likely be the American one (i.e., actual rye grain whiskey, and not just Canadian whisky). Regardless, the earliest mention says it's from Toronto, so I'm proud to say that we Canadians can claim a great cocktail.

In terms of how to make it, if it was made in 1920's downtown Toronto, Gooderham and Wort would have most likely been the Canadian whisky used, which Shawn calls a "big, ballsy, old-school whisky." Today, he recommends Forty Creek. I always lean to American whiskey, and the best one I've had is with Rittenhouse Bonded straight rye, so that is my recommendation.

Please enjoy the rest of this unedited post, but take it with a grain of salt given this new information. Cheers! ]]

So, the drink itself seems to have no particular history that I can find. No exciting story, no explanation behind the name. The first record of the Toronto is in the first publication of David Embury's cocktail book in 1948. Embury was an American attourney, but also a humble and very skilled and knowledgeable barman. His book "The Fine Art Of Mixing Drinks" is very influential even today for its basic categorization of drink types, ratios, and "rules." Cocktails are either aromatic or sour, and ingredients are either the base, the modifying agent, or the flavouring/colouring agent. He stated the general sour ratio of 1:2:8 for sweet:sour:base, which I discussed previously in the Sidecar post. His basic principles, and list of basic drinks set a solid framework for any future bartender to experiment, and his book is one of the quintessential bartending tomes, along with those of Harry Craddock and Jerry Thomas.


The Toronto Cocktail

2oz American Straight Rye Whiskey
1/4oz simple syrup
1/2oz Fernet Branca
2 dashes Angostura Bitters

Combine ingredients, add ice, stir, strain into a cocktail glass and garnish with a lemon or orange zest. The orange might make the drink a little too sweet, especially if you added anything more than 1/4 of the syrup or Fernet. This is a difficult one to balance, so make sure you stir for a long time and taste until you find the right amount of dilution. Don't overdo the Fernet or you'll ruin the drink.

The Toronto is yet another variation on a classic - The Manhattan - in which the sweetening agent, vermouth, is replaced with a touch of simple syrup and a touch of the amaro Fernet, which in turn acts as a bittering agent with the Angostura. It's a very densely flavoured drink, and works extremely well with American rye (I wouldn't suggest making it without American whiskey, Canadian is just too subdued to keep pace with the Fernet). Jamie Boudreau claims to have discovered this drink in recent times, and you can see it popping up at craft cocktail bars all over the place. Sadly, you never would have found the "Toronto" in Canada, and you still may be challenged to find a place that makes it properly with real rye. Nonetheless, without a specific history, late 1940's New York is definitely an exciting time.

The 40's were obviously shadowed by the events of WWII, and the United States saw a small exodus of European artists and intellectuals who fled to the new world. Wartime brought rationing, scrap drives for raw materials, and homeland internment camps for Japanese suspected of being loyal to their country. The war did have its positives economically, however, and afterwards the effects of the Great Depression lessened. The number of women in the workforce increased dramatically to replace the number of men who left to serve overseas, "African Americans" began to fight for proper status, eductation increased, and social paradigms began to shift.
Medicine, science, and politics all began to change for the better, as penicillin (the first antibiotic) was invented, "coloured" people were approved to vote by the Supreme Court, unemployment dropped from 25% in the 1930's to 6%, and life expectancy increased. To put this era in an interesting perspective for us in the modern age, though, the U.S. population hit 132 million, the average salary was $1300 per year, only 55% of homes had indoor plumbing, and the average life expectancy - while rising - was still in the 60's. Commercial television hit the public in 1947, and the first computers were developed.

I'm going to talk a little extra about music this time because it's a period with which I am particularly enamoured...
American music went through huge leaps in evolution in the first half of the 20th century, particularly in what is arguably its greatest export - jazz. We briefly visited Chicago in the 1920's and discussed Louis Armstrong's influence on popular music and jazz, and in the time since swing boomed in the 1930's and jazz became a musical mainstay on radio and in American homes. The late 1930's saw ridiculously talented and young musicians like Charlie Parker, Dizzy Golespie, and Thelonius Monk were pushing the boundaries of improvisation and creating bebop, which was a fast, furious, and highly improvisational form of jazz that, like early swing, shaped music to come. Once the U.S. became involved in WWII, the American Federation of Musicians had a strike against major recording companies for royalties, which was a big factor in not only the death of swing, but also jazz and bebop becoming a more underground and mysterious city movement. By the mid 40's, Miles Davis made his way to New York to play with Parker, but the latter's debilitating drug problems forced Miles to form his own band with Gerry Mulligan and Max Roach with Gil Evans in an advisory position, and started experimenting - as he always did - on the very outskirts of what was to come in music. Miles took all the elements from bebop jazz, which was by no means waning, and put his own spin on things by incorporating polyphony and even more free and loose improvisation that used more empty space and longer notes. The recordings from his nonet from 1948-1950 are considered the first and most influential of the subsequent period of jazz known as "cool." So far ahead of his time was Miles that these recordings weren't even fully released together until almost 10 years later, at which point cool jazz had become popular and made its way to the west coast with Gerry Mulligan and Chet Baker.
So, this piece is more complicated and not pop as have been all my previous musical accompaniments, but it just wouldn't seem right to post a cocktail from 1948 New York without tipping my hat to Miles.
(If you notice the "1957" in the title, just remember that's when "The Birth Of The Cool" was released, but it was recorded in 1949).

[[ Photography from the New York Times (street), Life Magazine (women), Jamie Boudreau (cocktail) and - no joke - Stanley Kubrick (single woman) from his early days as a photographer ]]

Fernet February: "The Dark And Fernet-y" From Rob Roy

So this is the final Fernet February cocktail recipe from a local bar. I will be doing a small piece on 1940's New York where we will discover the Toronto Cocktail to finish off the month, but this is the final recipe submission.
Tonight we head south again to Seattle to visit one of the more fun, interesting, and renowned bars in the city. As more and more bars start to attempt to jump on the (slowly growing) bandwagon of classic cocktails, it becomes harder in good food and drink cities to find reliable and skilled bars. That sounds strange to say, because so much of the last 20-30 years has been a treasure hunt for anyone who gives a crap at all about cocktails, let alone good-quality spirits. Up until recently it's seemed impossible to find somewhere to get a good drink, and now it's becoming even more confusing because there are bad bars misleading you by offering classic cocktails then making them poorly. San Francisco, New York, Chicago, Seattle, and yes, Vancouver, are all great destinations for food and drink, but it's always good to make sure you check the reviews, menus, and word-of-mouth to make sure you know where to go. Seattle has a great selection, from Canon and Zig Zag, to Tavern Law and Bathtub Gin & Co., to Hideout and Vessel, and of course, Rob Roy.
Tonight's bar was recently named one of the top 50 bars in the U.S. for 2011 by Food and Drink Magazine, and it's a pleasure to get a recipe from owner and bartender Anu Apte - even if it's the simplest of their selection. First of all let's take a look at Rob Roy's aesthetic, which is awesome. There is a 1970's vibe, with padded leather walls, stacks of books, washrooms dressed in graffiti, interesting art, and vintage tape recorders. Easily the coolest thing about Rob Roy is Tuesday "analog nights," during which all music is played either on vinyl or cassette and you are encouraged to bring your own selections in. If they approve, you even get a cocktail on the house. Awesome idea.
You can check out a short interview on the Small Screen Network on "Hanging With Harris" here, and see Anu talk a little about the place and make their namesake cocktail. (My favourite quote here is definitely "we do have a small selection of vodka, even though we're a cocktail bar - we still have the weekend crowd," after showing off the impressive amount of rye, bourbon, mezcal, and Cognac).
P.S. is it me, or does Harris sound just like Patton Oswalt? (one who interrupts way too much)...

Other Fernet originals at Rob Roy include the "Owl's Clover," using Cocchi Americano, Fernet Branca, lemon juice, honey, and lavender bitters, and the "Ginslinger," using Old Tom gin, Fernet Branca, cane sugar, and Regan's orange bitters. There's definitely some interesting modern mixology at play here, but you can also tell that there's a genuine appreciation for classic cocktails too. Their "classic cocktails" menu alone shows a vast knowledge, as none of the drinks are easily recognizable, such as the "Duke of Norfolk Punch," "The Ancient Mariner," "Delores," and "Warday's Cocktail." I know, I haven't heard of these either.

It being a super busy month for cocktailia, Anu couldn't get me a new original, but was kind enough to pass on a popular choice at Rob Roy - a simple and well-matched drink (we've seen this month that Fernet pairs well with ginger beer and almost any fruit juice). It's just a "Dark and Stormy" with Fernet in place of rum, and is a great way to enjoy the amaro.

Dark and Fernet-y

1.5oz Fernet Branca
4-5 Lime Wedges
Ginger beer
Muddle wedges in collins glass, add ice, Fernet, and ginger beer, and stir lightly.



If you're in Seattle, Rob Roy should definitely be on your list of top cocktail destinations, and I'm sure you'll be excited by both their creative originals and obscure classics on the menu. Thanks to Anu for contributing!

[[ see the "Gastown Swizzle" from L'Abattoir here ]]
[[ see the "Chinatown Sour" from The Keefer here ]]
[[ see "Pandemonium" from Veneto Tapa Lounge here ]]
[[ see "The Bittercup" from Pourhouse here ]]
[[ see "The Vested Bartender" from Boneta here ]]
[[ see "The Parliament" from The Diamond here ]]
[[ see "Parliament Hill" from The Hideout here ]]
[[ see "The Lucky Lady" from The Refinery here ]]
[[ see "The Denny Triangle" from Jamie Boudreau / Canon here ]]

Review: L'Abattoir (plus Fernet February cocktails!)

In the interest of keeping things interesting for the reader, and saving myself a little time and a little redundancy, tonight I'm going to combine the Fernet February cocktails with a review of the same establishment - L'Abattoir.

Gastown has a surprising number of great destinations for food and drink considering the size of the area. Once you're on Water Street, it seems like you can't walk 50 feet in any direction without bumping into a good-looking menu, and once you're greeted by Gassy Jack himself at Carrall Street the options are overwhelming. However, now that I've been to dinner a few times, I can easily say that L'Abattoir has some of the best food in Vancouver, and that should always be at the top of your list for an amazing meal if you're in the area.
Situated adjacent to Blood Alley, and aptly named (meaning "slaughterhouse"), the history of the building is palpable when you step inside. Blood Alley has numerous colourful histories (most of which have been disproved), including public hangings, murders, slaughterhouses, and hangings. The alley is so renowned for its creepy ambience and supposed hauntings that the crew from "Paranormal State" even spent the night there. 
The brick road has sunken gutters that were supposedly used for collecting blood from the slaughterhouse, but of course could have also just been built for rain. The colourful histories are much more exciting, so I like to pretend they haven't been completely disproved. The L'Abattoir building itself is the self-proclaimed site of Vancouver's first prison, and while refurbished with very cool modern touches, it has a dark, decrepid, and jail-like feel. White paint (intentionally) peels off brick walls, and a huge lattice-work of antlers hangs overhead in the downstairs dining area as you sit in wood-design chairs over tile flooring. The whole place is a strange juxtaposition of new decor with warm wood and soft light, and old, harsh brick and tile.
As mentioned, the food is fantastic, and the menu changes often so each time you go you'll have new options. I wouldn't suggest coming if you're vegatarian, however, as every menu option uses meat - but what do you expect going to a restaurant in Blood Alley named "Slaughterhouse." My dinner there this evening alone is making my mouth water all over again - fillet of Pacific cod wrapped in bacon and pork sausage covered in a lobster sauce froth and served with a fricassee of white beans (see photo to the right). Mmmmm...
They have rarities as well, such as sweetbread and escargots.


Now the bar, while very small, is worth the seat you'll wait for. The angled shelves completely covered in interesting glassware, bitters, liqueurs, and a huge selection of whiskey/whisky are almost disorienting (in a good way). The menu, designed by head barman Shaun Layton, has a very classy selection of classic cocktails, including some rarer selections such as The Fourth Regiment and the Hanky Panky (Shaun even sent me an article he wrote on the latter, which I hope to utilize soon), and continues on to some very well-crafted and diverse originals. I've tried almost every original currently on the menu now, and there is definitely something here for everyone. While ones like the Commercial Drive (Cinzano Orancio, Ramazzotti, grapefruit liqueur, lemon, sparkling wine) and the Gastown Swizzle (Plymouth gin, Aperol, passionfruit, lime, Fernet float) lack balls, as I like to say, they are still interesting and balanced. Others, such as the Slaughterhouse (Cognac, Elixer Vegital, sugar, aromatic bitters, orange oil, Chartreuse mist) are well-crafted, deep and complex, and very enjoyable. Other notables include the Meat Hook - a variation on the Red Hook - made with Sazerac Rye, maraschino, Punt e Mes, and Ardbeg 10-year, the last of which adds a very smokey complexion, and my favourite on the menu, the Butchertown Cocktail, which contains bourbon, Banks rum, Beckerovka, Cynar amaro, french vermouth, and tobacco bitters.
The bar has a very different approach than others like The Keefer or The Refinery in that there aren't any outlandish ingredients scattered throughout and there seemingly aren't any house bitters or syrups or tinctures. Like Pourhouse, the focus is very much on classic cocktails, and simplicity in ingredients but diversity in flavour. While I very much enjoy visiting the aforementioned bars and even dabble at home in making my own ingredients (I'm even stock-piling ingredients to make my own bitters right now), this philosophy is much closer to my heart and I appreciate it. For example, I asked Shaun if they make their own Boker's bitters or if he tracked some down somewhere, and his response was "I let the experts who have access to all the right equipment, time, and ingredients make bitters - I'll gladly use them in my cocktails." Again, as much fun as crazy infusions and creative ingredients are in mixology right now, there's all of a sudden something refreshing about that attitude.

On to the Fernet drinks.

First is on the menu. It's very light and fruity, but gets more complex as you stir the Fernet into the drink and more flavours start to play off each other. It's another great example of how well Fernet can pair with fruit.

Gastown Swizzle

45ml Plymouth gin
15ml Aperol
25ml fresh lime
dash simple syrup
10ml passionfruit puree
Fernet float
Build in a collins glass over crushed ice, insert swizzle straw, garnish with lime zest, float Fernet over top of ice.

The second drink I haven't even had a chance to try yet, but don't worry - I'll be back soon for a verdict ;)
At a glance it seems a little insane, mostly because of the banana syrup, but Rittenhouse is one of my favourite ryes and any drink with Boker's bitters is rare.

Improved king Kong

40ml Rittenhouse 100-proof rye
25ml Noilly Prat dry vermouth
10ml Giffard Banana
12ml Fernet Branca
2 dashes Bokers bitters
Stir over ice, strain into a cocktail glass, garnish with a lemon twist

So, like Diamond and Boneta, these recipes use mL rather than oz. I won't put a translation this time, but just remember that 1oz = about 30 mL (29.6 to be exact). These recipes in particular are so precise, I suggest you just make your way to Gastown and try them out. In fact, make a night of it and have a nice dinner too - you won't regret it. It's expensive compared to the average, yes, but you usually get what you pay for, and L'Abattoir in particular it's worth every penny and more.

Thank you to Shaun for his contribution to this series and thanks to everyone at L'Abattoir for running an excellent bar and restaurant in this beautiful city of ours.

[[ see the Fernet February introduction here ]]
[[ see the "Chinatown Sour" from The Keefer here ]]
[[ see "Pandemonium" from Veneto Tapa Lounge here ]]
[[ see "The Bittercup" from Pourhouse here ]]
[[ see "The Vested Bartender" from Boneta here ]]
[[ see "The Parliament" from The Diamond here ]]
[[ see "Parliament Hill" from The Hideout here ]]
[[ see "The Lucky Lady" from The Refinery here ]]
[[ see "The Denny Triangle" from Jamie Boudreau / Canon here ]]
[[ see the "Dark and Fernet-y" from Rob Roy here ]]

Fernet February: "The Chinatown Sour" from The Keefer

We've seen Fernet with a range of spirits, juice, fruit, fortified wines, bitters, amari, and liqueurs, in a wide array of styles. We've even seen Fernet coming in at over an ounce but not being totally overpowering. What we haven't seen yet are some crazy infusions, and that's where The Keefer comes in.

The Keefer is a fairly new establishment (as a lot of our great bars in Vancouver seem to be) located in Chinatown in the midst of the night markets. The decor is amazing, with a long, dark, black and red space sprinkled with backlit pictures of anatomy between jars of bitters and infusions containing ingredients that look like failed Area 51 experiments preserved in fermaldehyde. (Check out these great photos)
Like The Refinery, they make a range of house-bitters, syrups, and infusions, but what makes The Keefer unique is what ingredients they use. There are syrups infused with traditional Chinese medicinal herbs and roots like Yunzhi and astragalus, tea and ginger make numerous appearances, and fruit flavours like pear, apricot, and muroise show up as well. There's even a section at the end of the menu to add herbal health shots to your cocktails like you would at a juice bar.
I must admit that this creative and outlandish use of ingredients turned me off my first visit, but my second visit showed me that not only are the people running the bar skilled, but most of the drinks are variations on classics with creative embellishments, which is how mixology and bartending evolved in the first place, so what am I worried about? If it tastes good, that's what matters, right?

I strategically showed up early in the evening and was lucky to have not only Danielle Tatarin, the bar manager, but also the assistant bar manager, Keenan Hood make me the Chinatown Sour listed below, a new and impromptu Fernet cocktail using ginger and cassis, and a more traditional style original libation using tequila called the Diablo Blanco. I even got to see how they serve their group shots, which is using an old hospital IV drip. I'll get more into The Keefer soon when I post my review. In the meantime, check out these originals:

The Chinatown Sour is a variation on the Trinidad Sour (which uses a whole ounce of Angostura bitters with orgeat syrup to balance) but uses Fernet as the bitters and infuses the orgeat with astragalus root, which has a very earthy, nutty flavour that gives the drink a fuller taste. The Storm Chaser is a spicy, bitter-sweet storm of flavours, which I must repeat was an improvised cocktail by Danielle for my Fernet adventure. I was shocked to hear how much Fernet was actually in there; the lime really cuts through, the ginger spice takes a lot of focus away from the Fernet, and the cassis really calms things down. It's not my usual style, but I was impressed and it was very interesting and refreshing.

Check out The Keefer if you feel like something very different, or just check them out in general. They even have burlesque on thursday nights. I should really finish that review. Or maybe I should just drop by for another drink...


Chinatown Sour
By Keenan Hood

1 oz Overproof Whiskey
3/4 oz Fernet Branca
3/4 oz Astragalus & Orgeat Syrup
1 oz Lemon Juice
Shake all ingredients for 10 seconds then fine strain into a cocktail glass.

Storm Chaser
By Danielle Tatarin

1 1/2 oz Fernet Branca

1 oz Lime Juice

3/4 oz Ginger Syrup

Top Soda

1/2 oz Cassis

Build first three ingredients on ice in Collins glass. Top with soda & crushed ice.

Drizzle Cassis over crushed ice to finish.

Garnish with grated lime zest.

Photo from www.thekeeferbar.com

[[ see the Fernet February introduction here ]]
[[ see the "Gastown Swizzle" from L'Abattoir here ]]
[[ see the "Dark and Fernet-y" from Rob Roy here ]]
[[ see "Pandemonium" from Veneto Tapa Lounge here ]]
[[ see "The Bittercup" from Pourhouse here ]]
[[ see "The Vested Bartender" from Boneta here ]]
[[ see "The Parliament" from The Diamond here ]]
[[ see "Parliament Hill" from The Hideout here ]]
[[ see "The Lucky Lady" from The Refinery here ]]
[[ see "The Denny Triangle" from Jamie Boudreau / Canon here ]]

Fernet February: "The Denny Triangle" from Jamie Boudreau at Canon

Today's drinks come from one of the bigger names in bartending and "mixology," Mr. Jamie Boudreau. Who is Jamie? Well, I'll let him do the talking himself here on his blog.
His online show Raising The Bar is a great resource for creative cocktails and learning some new and fancy things outside of the norm, his blog has been filling up my journal with delicious new libations to test out, and he's dedicated a newer blog only to cocktails involving St. Germain. These are all great resources for experimenting at home, but also good resources for trying and learning new things on the job if you're a professional.

One thing that is obvious from reading his blogs and recipes is how much he loves his bitters (he even makes and sells his own cherry bitters), and this includes amari. Some of his wild and crazy creations include the Zim Zala Bim, which uses a 1/4oz of orange bitters, and the Aromatic Collins, which uses a full ounce of aromatic bitters. Lots of others use amari, and his site even has a recipe for creating your own amaro at home in an attempt to recreate the taste of the ever-elusive Amer Picon.

Jamie currently runs the bar at Canon in Seattle, a new but renowned establishment with a ridiculous selection of booze and bitters (check this out), which is also apparently the new home to Murray "The Blur" Stenson.
Anyway, on to the drinking...

The one I wanted to share today I found on Raising The Bar, and it's one I often enjoy at home when I'm thirsty and have grapefruits around (and hopefully it's after noon). Gin holds a solid base underneath a lot of juice, and a lot of sweetness from the Benedictine, so Fernet comes out as subtle as I feel it should be in a drink.
When I emailed Jamie and asked for his permission to share this cocktail on this blog, he sent me another recipe for something that looks ridiculous at a glance. I actually mixed one as soon as I was finished the email because I was so curious. Look at the recipe below, you'll see what I mean...

First, here is
Denny Triangle Cocktail

2oz Beefeater gin
3/4oz Benedictine
1/4oz Fernet Branca
2oz grapefruit juice
Shake all ingredients with ice and strain into a cocktail glass.

You can see Jamie make the drink himself here on Raising The Bar.

And here is the the little present he gave me... a seriously interesting and complex bunch of flavours, and while the Fernet is super forward here, it's actually not as overpowering as I thought it would be...


Miseria Cocktail

1 part Carpano Antica
1 part Fernet Branca
3 dashes orange bitters
Stir with ice, serve into a chilled rocks glass, garnish with flamed orange zest

Thanks for the recipes, Jamie!

[[ see the Fernet February introduction here ]]
[[ see the "Gastown Swizzle" from L'Abattoir here ]]

[[ see the "Chinatown Sour" from The Keefer here ]]
[[ see "Pandemonium" from Veneto Tapa Lounge here ]]
[[ see "The Bittercup" from Pourhouse here ]]
[[ see "The Vested Bartender" from Boneta here ]]
[[ see "The Parliament" from The Diamond here ]]
[[ see "Parliament Hill" from The Hideout here ]]
[[ see "The Lucky Lady" from The Refinery here ]]


Jamie's photo by Antoinette Bruno, ICC Food Porn Gallery

Fernet February: "The Lucky Lady" from The Refinery

Tonight's cocktail is from a gem in the heart of downtown Vancouver's entertainment district - The Refinery. Now this is unique for a particular reason - there is basically no other purpose for coming to this part of downtown for drinks or food. Granville street is packed with bridge and tunnel crowds and restaurants and clubs that appease this population. Coming here on a Saturday night is a good idea if you like to watch parades of orange tans and un-buttoned silk or flannel shirts crowd the asphalt while whooping and blurting "bro" on their way to Caprice and AuBar. Too pretentious? Whatever.
The point is that in the heart of all this nonsense is a bar hidden upstairs with fantastic drinks and food, an interesting cocktail program, and constant fun events. Whether it's Wednesday night Mad Hatter Tea Parties, or the now-extinct Cocktail Kitchen, or Tales of the Cocktail spirited dinners, The Refinery always has something going on. If you're looking for good drinks and you're downtown, The Refinery is the place to go. They make some really interesting house syrups, bitters, and even a "Chartreuse pop," and offer an "impromptu punch" should you be unsure what drink to order off their excellent menu.

This drink is created by bar manager Graham Racich, and features at least one interesting ingredient: Pinot Des Charentes. This is basically a Cognac combined with a lightly fermented grape juice. It's quite sweet, but still has a little herbal character in the spirit of a fortified wine. Along with some housemade peach bitters, and the lately constant theme of Fernet, this drink comes out tasting deep yet light, and exciting. In fact, it might just be my favourite drink of all the Fernet February cocktails.

I have a review of The Refinery coming up soon (based on the pleasure of visiting them for Dine Out Vancouver) [[ it's done now, you can read it here ]], and possibly another excellent cocktail from resident 'mixologist,' Joel, and I will link these soon. In the meantime, I highly suggest heading to The Refinery, particularly on an event night (find these at their website www.therefineryvancouver.com). "The Lucky Lady" listed below is not on the cocktail menu yet, but if you're 'lucky' enough to have Graham working the night you visit, ask for this cocktail - it's fabulous.

The Lucky Lady

1.5oz Alberta Premium Rye
1oz Pinot Des Charentes
0.5oz lemon juice
0.25oz Fernet Branca
Dash of simple syrup
Dash of peach bitters
Finish with a twist of lemon

Add all ingredients to a shaker, shake with ice, strain into a cocktail glass and garnish with a lemon twist. 

[[ see the Fernet February introduction here ]]
[[ see the "Gastown Swizzle" from L'Abattoir here ]]
[[ see the "Dark and Fernet-y" from Rob Roy here ]]
[[ see the "Chinatown Sour" from The Keefer here ]]
[[ see "Pandemonium" from Veneto Tapa Lounge here ]]
[[ see "The Bittercup" from Pourhouse here ]]
[[ see "The Vested Bartender" from Boneta here ]]
[[ see "The Parliament" from The Diamond here ]]
[[ see "Parliament Hill" from The Hideout here ]]
[[ see "The Denny Triangle" from Jamie Boudreau / Canon here ]]

Fernet February: "Profanity Hill" from The Hideout

Tonight's cocktail hails from The Hideout in Seattle, a dark and delightful little bar filled with independent art and stocked with well-crafted cocktails.
You can see my review here.

This drink, along with The Bittercup from Pourhouse, is essentially what inspired me to do this whole series. I love the flavour of Fernet - I often drink it at home with some club soda - but when used in cocktails it consistently overpowers the other ingredients and rarely gives a balanced drink. The Toronto was the first one I tried that I felt was balanced when made by a professional, but I failed time after time to achieve that balance at home. I then found The Bittercup, which is an incredibly creative drink, but I felt like there was more to be achieved and in a simpler manner. Then on my last trip to Seattle, I stumbled across The Hideout and tried the Profanity Hill cocktail from bar manager Kristen Naranjo and was first of all impressed by the very different style, but also realized how well Fernet worked with fruit - in this case, blackberry. Add in some sour, a dark rum base, and top with ginger beer (the last being absolutely key) and suddenly a very different and wonderful thing is accomplished with Fernet.

Profanity Hill took me on an adventure at home experimenting with different kinds of fruit and different bases and I ended up having a lot of fun and finding a new appreciation for the amaro. I also feel like I've learned a lot more about balancing a cocktail in general. 
As I've mentioned in previous posts, I feel like the cocktails that make Fernet work the best are ones that treat it as a bitters rather than a liqueur. L'Abattoir uses it as a bitter float, Diamond and Keefer use it in replace of Angostura bitters in Trinidad Sour-style drinks, Boneta uses little more than a dash, and so on, and these drinks all really work. I've been to numerous bars that use a full half ounce in place of a typical liqueur in a basic drink and all you end up with is a big, high-proof glass of Fernet. I'm excited this month to share all these delicious, balanced, and exciting drinks using Fernet from all these wonderful places, and hope that it inspires some of you reading to start experimenting more at home - whether it's with Fernet or not.

On to the drink, and if you end up in Seattle any time soon there are a lot of amazing bars to visit, but please put The Hideout on your list - and if you do, make sure you try The Profanity Hill.

Profanity Hill


1.5 oz Blackstrap Rum (preferably Cruzan)
0.25 to 0.5 oz Fernet Branca (to taste)
.25 oz fresh squeezed lime juice
Blackberry preserves
Goslings Ginger Beer

Shake first three ingredients, strain over ice and add barspoon of preserves on top (bramble style).
Top with Goslings Ginger Beer.

[[ see the Fernet February introduction here ]]
[[ see the "Gastown Swizzle" from L'Abattoir here ]]

[[ see the "Chinatown Sour" from The Keefer here ]]
[[ see "Pandemonium" from Veneto Tapa Lounge here ]]
[[ see "The Bittercup" from Pourhouse here ]]
[[ see "The Vested Bartender" from Boneta here ]]
[[ see "The Parliament" from The Diamond here ]]
[[ see "The Lucky Lady" from The Refinery here ]]
[[ see "The Denny Triangle" from Jamie Boudreau / Canon here ]]


Photography by The Last Bite.

Fernet February: "The Parliament" from The Diamond

Tonight's recipe is a change of pace from what we've seen so far, and a big change of pace for me because of the base: Cachaça. I've never owned a bottle, and I've had very few drinks with it at all. While similar to rum (it's distilled from sugarcane juice, whereas rum is distilled from molasses which is a by-product of extracting sugar from sugarcane), it has a much more raw flavour, and I would describe it as more harsh. It's actually the third most consumed spirit in the world, but a big reason for that is the fact that it's almost all that Brazil drinks (with its national drink being the Caipirinha), and Brazil happens to have a huge population. In fact, only about 1% of Cachaça made in Brazil is exported out of Brazil.

What's not different about tonight's recipe is that it comes from another bar in Vancouver's Gastown. This area does happen to have most of the best food and drink in the city, so that's not really surprising. Hidden, like so many amazing places are here, The Diamond is on the most famous corner in Gastown, across the street from the statue of Gassy Jack. Now, if you're not very observant, you might have trouble finding it because it's above you. The entrance to The Diamond is just a single doorway leading upstairs to what feels like a secret hideout only you and anyone else who has the password knows about. While this speakeasy sort of feel is exciting as you head up there, enjoy a cocktail and look down on the lights and brick streets of Gastown, it does unfortunately also seem to extend to the service, which has been less friendly than I'd like the times I've been there.
However, the drinks are delicious, the menu is smart and full of great choices (including an "Overlooked" section with such gems as The Chrysanthemum), they're open late, and they even offer weekly bartending classes.

My last visit there was exciting for a few reasons - first, it was really late and everything else was closed which lent itself nicely to the ambience, second, I got to try the The Parliament cocktail featured below, and lastly I also got to try a different, off-the-menu Fernet cocktail created by my bartender for the evening, Patrick. He was kind enough to not only make the cocktail for me very near closing time, but also write me out a recipe, which I will also include below.
The Parliament, created by Diamond co-owner, Josh Pape, is harsh on my tongue - again because I don't have a real taste for Cachaça - is complexified by the Fernet, softened by the honey, and tied together with the lime. It is definitely a well-crafted drink. The "Irish Cabana Boy," as Patrick called it, is kind of a variation on The Trinidad Sour, which features a whole ounce of Angostura bitters balanced by orgeat syrup and lemon. It comes off tasting similar, but much less complicated simply because the two amari, while dense themselves, just don't cut through the way Angostura does (as to be expected). It was delicious and exciting, and the first Fernet drink I had tried of this kind (though I moved on to taste a similar idea at The Keefer the following night, but more on that later). It's an excellent post-dinner cocktail. Both the selections tonight are worth a trip to Gastown, but so is most of The Diamond's menu.
If you feel like a late-night, secretive sort of evening of impressive cocktails while looking down on beautiful Gastown, hit up The Diamond - just make sure you don't miss the entrance or forget the password ;)


(the mL measurements are the indended measurements for these drinks, and the oz listed are approximations for home experimentation. Head to Diamond to ensure these are made properly!)

The Parliament

45mL blanco Cachaça                      (1.5oz)
15mL Fernet Branca                        (0.5oz)
25mL fresh lime juice                       (a little more than 0.75oz)
20mL runny honey                           (2/3oz)

Shake hard and fine strain into a chilled cocktail glass.
Spray with grapefruit oil. Enjoy.


The Irish Cabana Boy

30mL Fernet Branca                       (1oz)
25mL Amaro Montenegro              (a little more than 0.75oz)
20mL lemon juice                            (2/3oz)
15mL orgeat syrup                          (0.5oz)
2 dashes absinthe

Shake and fine strain into a chilled cocktail glass.

[[ see the Fernet February introduction here ]]
[[ see the "Gastown Swizzle" from L'Abattoir here ]]
[[ see the "Dark and Fernet-y" from Rob Roy here ]]
[[ see the "Chinatown Sour" from The Keefer here ]]
[[ see "Pandemonium" from Veneto Tapa Lounge here ]]
[[ see "The Bittercup" from Pourhouse here ]]
[[ see "The Vested Bartender" from Boneta here ]]
[[ see "Parliament Hill" from The Hideout here ]]
[[ see "The Lucky Lady" from The Refinery here ]]
[[ see "The Denny Triangle" from Jamie Boudreau / Canon here ]]

Photography from Scout Magazine

Fernet February: "The Vested Bartender" from Boneta

Welcome back to Fernet February, where we will be enjoying a new, original cocktail each post from the creative minds of bartenders in the Pacific Northwest.

Today's cocktail comes from the lovely bar and restaurant, Boneta, hidden in the brick alleys of Vancouver's Gastown. It has one of the best cocktail programs in Vancouver, and some of the best service I've had here in the city as well. You can see my review of Boneta here.

The cocktail was created by Mathieu Faure, an excellent bartender in skill and service, and also one of the few ways to get Amer Picon in Vancouver (as he has his father send over a couple bottles occasionally from France). "The Vested Bartender," as he calls it, has an interesting bitter bite to it along with a lot of herbal texture, but is also balanced nicely by the sweetness from the amaro and Maraschino. It makes a great aperitif before dinner, or just a nice early evening sipper.

The Vested Bartender
The next best thing to having one at home...

45ml Beefeater gin
20ml Ramazzotti Amaro
10ml Maraschino liqueur
5ml Fernet Branca
2 dashes Regan’s Orange bitters

Stir and serve in a cocktail coupe with a small twist of orange zest.

Now for those of you (like me) who use jiggers with ounce measurements rather than mL measurements, here is the basic translation (though note that these had to be approximated a little bit, and using the mL measurements is the proper way to go to achieve the taste that was intended):

1.5oz Beefeater gin
2/3oz Ramazzotti Amaro
1/3oz Maraschino liqueur
1/6oz Fernet Branca
2 dashes Regan’s Orange bitters
Now that is a little tough to accomplish as most jiggers only have 1/4 and 1/2 measurements, but you can guess at it by doing a little less than 3/4oz Ramazzotti, a little less than 1/2 Maraschino, and a little less than 1/4 Fernet. Taste as you're stirring. I found I overdid the Maraschino a little bit, and added too little Ramazzotti.

In the end, you should definitely head down to Boneta and taste this drink as properly made by the staff at Boneta, and stick around and try some other drinks as well because they have some great selections on their menu. If Mathieu is there to make you "The Vested Bartender" himself, have him also make you a Brooklyn or be adventurous and try a Trinidad Sour (Boneta is where I tried my first one). If you don't know what that is, you're in for a delicious surprise.

Thank you to Mathieu for this cocktail, and thank you to Simon Kaulback, the general manager of Boneta, for submitting the recipe and for running such an excellent establishment.
Sante, my friends!

Please share your favourite Fernet cocktails, or your original creations below in the comments section!
And, be sure to stop by again in a few days for another original creation using Fernet by another local bar...

[[ see the Fernet February introduction here ]]
[[ see the "Gastown Swizzle" from L'Abattoir here ]]
[[ see the "Dark and Fernet-y" from Rob Roy here ]]
[[ see the "Chinatown Sour" from The Keefer here ]]
[[ see "Pandemonium" from Veneto Tapa Lounge here ]]
[[ see "The Bittercup" from Pourhouse here ]]
[[ see "The Parliament" from The Diamond here ]]
[[ see "Parliament Hill" from The Hideout here ]]
[[ see "The Lucky Lady" from The Refinery here ]]
[[ see "The Denny Triangle" from Jamie Boudreau / Canon here ]]

Fernet February - "Pandemonium" from Veneto Tapa Lounge

Welcome to cocktail #2 for Fernet February!
This next one comes from a fantastic bar/restaurant in Victoria with a very talented bar staff - Veneto. The menu is exciting, separated into originals, twisted classics, sparkling, and other small sections (including a "de lux" section with a $50 Sazerac using Sazerac 18 year-old rye). There are numerous originals on the menu that are delicious, creative, and worth the trip if you're in the area.
You can see my review of Veneto here.

They have been incredibly friendly and excited when it comes to this endeavor of mine and have contributed an original recipe from Katie McDonald (the skilled one mentioned in my review) in a flip style using a very interesting syrup infused with black pepper and vanilla bean. It is recommended as a later-in-the-evening cocktail, as it "packs a wallop."
A 'flip' style cocktail was a drink in the late 1600's using beer, sugar, and rum, and was served hot, making the drink foam. Over time the beer and heat were dropped, and eggs were incorporated to create the foam. Jerry Thomas's book "How To Mix Drinks" from 1862 was the first listed to add eggs to a 'flip,' and the style became very popular before being lost in the dark ages of cocktaildom (namely, the 1980's and 90's), but is often popping up nowadays at savvy and classic-minded bars. Cocktails often contain egg white (such as a Clover Club, or a traditional Whiskey Sour), but flips contain the entire egg. This primarily adds texture and viscosity, but also a slight flavour. The traditional way to use egg in a cocktail is to shake the ingredients without ice first, then add ice and shake again. This will give a full cocktail foam and texture to the drink. You can see a great example of this with the Don't Mind If I Do cocktail.
Flips make perfect winter drinks, and will also work as a perfect finish to your evening.

Representing Victoria, B.C., is Katie McDonald from the wonderful Veneto Tapa Lounge with her Fernet cocktail, Pandemonium: 

Pandemonium

1.5 oz Wray and Nephew Overproof Rum
3/4 oz Fernet Branca
1/2 oz Black Pepper and Vanilla Bean syrup
1 whole egg
Orange Zest

Combine all ingredients except orange in a cocktail shaker and shake briskly. 
Fine-strain into a chilled wine glass. Garnish with the orange zest.

If you find yourself in Victoria, you simply must stop by Veneto and try their original cocktails.

Please share your favourite Fernet cocktails, or your original creations below in the comments section!
And, be sure to stop by again in a few days for another original creation using Fernet by another local bar...

[[ see the Fernet February introduction here ]]
[[ see the "Gastown Swizzle" from L'Abattoir here ]]
[[ see the "Dark and Fernet-y" from Rob Roy here ]]
[[ see the "Chinatown Sour" from The Keefer here ]]
[[ see "The Bittercup" from Pourhouse here ]]
[[ see "The Vested Bartender" from Boneta here ]]
[[ see "The Parliament" from The Diamond here ]]
[[ see "Parliament Hill" from The Hideout here ]]
[[ see "The Lucky Lady" from The Refinery here ]]
[[ see "The Denny Triangle" from Jamie Boudreau / Canon here ]]

Fernet February - "The Bittercup" from Pourhouse

Welcome to Fernet February, where all month I will be sharing original recipes from the best bars in Vancouver, Seattle, and Victoria.
Now that we've covered what Fernet is and what the general challenge is for mixing it, we can jump right into the cocktails.

The first bar up is one of my favourites and definitely my go-to spot in Vancouver - Pourhouse. While it's a somewhat new establishment (about three years old), it feels like a very old one as soon as you walk in. Sitting at the bar made from reclaimed Douglas fir from the 1920's you'll feel like you're sitting at an actual saloon at the turn of the century. All the bartenders are vested (as they should be), the lighting sets a mood, French absinthe fountains adorn the bar, and the menu and style of the cocktails themselves are consistently classic in mentality. Each of the bartenders here are skilled and knowledgeable and typically go for the well-crafted classic and simple over newer and more complicated concoctions of infusions and crazy syrups (not that there's necessarily anything wrong with those things, I just happen to be more classic-minded myself).

I will save the rest I have to say about Pourhouse for whenever I get around to doing a proper review, so let's move on to the drink.

Today's Fernet February cocktail is "The Bittercup" by Pourhouse bar manager, Christopher Flett. It's possibly the most interesting Fernet cocktail I've ever tried, and just looking at the recipe reveals a creative and gutsy idea in general. Despite the intense and bitter flavours involved, the drink balances extremely well - like that of "bitter strawberries," as Flett puts it. It's so delicious my lady and I have started buying prosecco just to have a few day's worth of pre-dinner Bittercup's.

So without further adieu,

The Bittercup:
1 oz   Campari
1/2oz Fernet Branca
1/2oz real cranberry juice (not cranberry cocktail)
3/4oz fresh grapefruit juice
1/4oz simple syrup
2 oz  dry prosecco

Pour all ingredients except prosecco into a shaker. Shake. Taste and balance bitterness with simple syrup (the taste of bitter strawberries is the goal). Double strain into a cocktail glass. Finish with prosecco.

Thanks to Christopher and the Pourhouse for a creative, tasty, and refreshing drink that has become a mainstay at my home bar, and a common order every time we visit.

I encourage everyone reading to share your own Fernet cocktails in the comments area, and of course, please discuss the drinks themselves if you feel so inclined! See you in a day or two for a new Fernet cocktail...

[[ see the Fernet February introduction here ]]
[[ see the "Gastown Swizzle" from L'Abattoir here ]]
[[ see the "Dark and Fernet-y" from Rob Roy here ]]
[[ see the "Chinatown Sour" from The Keefer here ]]
[[ see "Pandemonium" from Veneto Tapa Lounge here ]]
[[ see "The Vested Bartender" from Boneta here ]]
[[ see "The Parliament" from The Diamond here ]]
[[ see "Parliament Hill" from The Hideout here ]]
[[ see "The Lucky Lady" from The Refinery here ]]
[[ see "The Denny Triangle" from Jamie Boudreau / Canon here ]]