Let's kick things off with a couple aperitivo-style cocktails using some lighter amari. First, we once again visit Shaun Layton at L'Abattoir in Vancouver's Gastown for a great spring/summer drink using Aperol and Campari, but the latter in an unusual way. Shaun makes a 2:1 simple syrup and adds Campari and a rhubarb stalk to it, adding a bitter-sweet layer of complexity. Rhubarb is a perfect addition as both the Campari and Aperol, the latter in particular, have this flavour and aroma. Tequila holds a steady backbone behind this potent ingredient, as we saw with several of the Maraschino cocktails last month, an overproof rum cuts through with the alcoholic edge, and the lime settles everything down. Wray and Nephew is a good choice as well for mixing with strong, bitter flavours, like we saw with The Pandemonium cocktail from Veneto in Victora during Fernet February. I'm in the process of convincing Shaun to throw a batch of this syrup together, so this cocktail might be making an appearance soon - make your way down to L'Abattoir to find out...
The One Hit Wonder
45mL El Jimador Tequila Blanco
30mL fresh lime juice
15mL Wray and Nephew Overproof Rum
15mL Rhubarb-Campari syrup
10mL Aperol
Grapefruit peel
Add all ingredients in a cocktail shaker, fill with ice and shake hard before double-straining into a chilled coupe. Garnish with a long piece of grapefruit peel.
To make the rhubarb-Campari syrup:
Combine 4 parts sugar to 2 parts water to 1 part Campari in a saucepan and bring to a boil, stirring often. Bring heat down to simmer and add 1 large stalk of finely-diced rhubarb. Let simmer for 30-60 minutes, strain, and let cool. Store in the fridge.
If you don't have a measuring tool with mL's, 1oz is close to 30mL (so 45 ~ 1.5oz, 15mL ~ 1/2oz, 10mL ~ 1/3oz).
(See my review of L'Abattoir here, and search "L'abattoir" in the top right of this blog to see other original cocktails from here)
[[ See my post on amaro digestivos here ]]
[[ See my post on amaro aperivos here ]]
[[ See a buying guide for amaro here ]]
[[ See "The Penny Farthing" from Pourhouse here ]]
[[ See an introduction to amaro here ]]
[[ See "The Imperial Eagle" from Bourbon & Branch here ]]
[[ See "Sevilla" from Beretta here ]]
[[ See "Fallow Grave" from the Toronto Temperance Society here ]]
[[ See "The Black Prince" from Phil Ward here ]]
[[ See "Bad Apple" and "Jackson Ward" from Amor y Amargo here ]]
[[ See "The Four Horsemen" from Jay Jones at Shangri-La here ]]
[[ See Colin MacDougall from Blue Water Cafe here ]]
[[ See "Debbie Don't" from Dutch Kills here ]]
[[ See "Welcome to the Dark Side" from Cin Cin here ]]
[[ See "Foolish Games" from Russell Davis here ]]
[[ See "Intro To Aperol" from Audrey Saunders at Pegu Club here ]]
Showing posts with label amari. Show all posts
Showing posts with label amari. Show all posts
Sunday, 8 April 2012
Saturday, 7 April 2012
Amaro Digestivos
Let's take a look at some of the most popular amaro digestivos, which are amari to be enjoyed after a meal to aid digestion (this is for the most part a tradition, but because of all the herbs involved, you'd be surprised at how a little Fernet can really calm your stomach).
The most traditional way to have a digestivo in Italy, and this includes grappa, is to enjoy it alongside an espresso or coffee after the meal, and in some cases, even pour your amaro into your empty coffee cup to combine a bit of the flavours. I like to enjoy mine in a small liqueur glass just neat, but some of more bitter amari are actually really refreshing afternoon or aperitivo drinks with some ice or soda (I most often drink my Fernet with a hefty splash of soda).
The most popular and available brands in North America are Averna, Montenegro, Fernet Branca, and Ramazzotti (there are numerous others you can find here, and hundreds more you'll find in Italy, but I have to narrow it down. For more examples of what to buy, including some prices, check out this post on buying amaro in B.C.).
Averna Amaro was created by monks, as is often the case in France and Italy, in Sicily in the tradition of Csitercian and Cluniac convents. In 1859 the recipe of herbs for infusion with alcohol was passed on to Salvatore Averna, who was both a Judge Peach and a benefactor of the Convent of St. Spirito's Abbe in Caltanisetta. By 1868, Averna had started his own production of the recipe for houseguests and friends. His son, Francesco, took the recipe and presented it at other monestaries and friars throughout Europe, and by 1895 even presented it to the king. In 1912, Averna became the offical supplier of amaro to the royal household in Italy, and after the early death of Francesco, his wife carried on the legacy until his sons again took over and finally began to export their product to America. By the late 1950's, production had become big enough to sustain a large business, and in another twenty years, Averna became one of the most popular amari in Europe. Averna as a company expanded to produce wine and grappa, but it's biggest product and legacy is that of its amaro. It has a dense but smooth taste, combining herbs, roots, citrus, which are steeped in a neutral alcohol base (likely grappa, but again, I don't have confirmation) before a natural caramel is added. Averna on the rocks is a very suitable aperitivo, but typically is consumed neat as a digestivo. It has a high alcohol content for typical amari (32%), and has a fairly heavy, thick, dark, slightly bitter taste, balanced by a sweet vanilla and caramel, making it excellent for a post-meal drink. I often drink it neat at the end of the night, and so should you - it's an excellent starting point for digestivos.
Amaro Montenegro has a somewhat different beginning, as it was produced in 1885in Bologna by an already established spirit manufacturer by the name of Stanislao Cobianchi. He infused a neutral spirit with many combinations of herbs from his travels all over the world before finally settling on the perfect recipe (supposedly after many sleepless nights), and named it in honour of the marriage of Victor Emmanuel III to the second queen of Italy, Princess Elena of Montenegro. The producer claims it to be the top-selling brand in Italy, though I've seen no confirmation of this (yet I have seen numerous claims that Fernet is the top-selling amaro in and out of Italy). The aroma and flavour bring a fair amount of orange peel, along with coriander, red cherry, pekoe tea, cucumber, and other more bitter but subtle components. It is most popular alongside a coffee or espresso, as is the most traditional Italian way.
Amaro Ramazzotti dates back further than any other I've found, to 1815, when Ausano Ramazzotti perfected his recipe in Milan, and sold and shared it as the expected medicinal tonic - supposedly the first Italian bitter liqueur. It wasn't until 30 years later, when Ausano opened up a cafe and started liberally serving his amaro that it started to become popular, and in 1848, he opened a bar next to the new La Scala theatre, where he served Ramazzotti instead of coffee as a digestivo. The business carried on through the family, production and sales grew, especially during WWI, when it became one of the first advertising campaigns, calling itself "the King of aperitifs." The demand continued to grow through the 50's, when a new, much larger factory was built, and again in the 70's, when an even larger factory was built. In the 80's, it was bought by the Pernod Ricard group, increasing its advertising and brand even further, and it became a socialite rage to sip Ramazzotti in Milan. The recipe includes 33 different herbs and spices, in particular orange peel, cardamom, myrrh, galangal, and cinnamon, and tastes quite similar to traditional cola. It's slightly weaker in flavour and proof than Averna, and I find it might be an even easier starting point.
For information on Fernet, check out the posts I did during Fernet February.
Now that we've discussed aperitivos, digestivos, where and what to buy, we can move on to some original cocktails from some talented bartenders...
[[ See my post on amaro aperivos here ]]
[[ See a buying guide for amaro here ]]
[[ See "The One Hit Wonder" from L'abattoir in Vancouver here ]]
[[ See "The Penny Farthing" from Pourhouse here ]]
[[ See an introduction to amaro here ]]
[[ See "The Imperial Eagle" from Bourbon & Branch here ]]
[[ See "Sevilla" from Beretta here ]]
[[ See "Fallow Grave" from the Toronto Temperance Society here ]]
[[ See "The Black Prince" from Phil Ward here ]]
[[ See "Bad Apple" and "Jackson Ward" from Amor y Amargo here ]]
[[ See "The Four Horsemen" from Jay Jones at Shangri-La here ]]
[[ See Colin MacDougall from Blue Water Cafe here ]]
[[ See "Debbie Don't" from Dutch Kills here ]]
[[ See "Welcome to the Dark Side" from Cin Cin here ]]
[[ See "Foolish Games" from Russell Davis here ]]
[[ See "Intro To Aperol" from Audrey Saunders at Pegu Club here ]]
The most traditional way to have a digestivo in Italy, and this includes grappa, is to enjoy it alongside an espresso or coffee after the meal, and in some cases, even pour your amaro into your empty coffee cup to combine a bit of the flavours. I like to enjoy mine in a small liqueur glass just neat, but some of more bitter amari are actually really refreshing afternoon or aperitivo drinks with some ice or soda (I most often drink my Fernet with a hefty splash of soda).
The most popular and available brands in North America are Averna, Montenegro, Fernet Branca, and Ramazzotti (there are numerous others you can find here, and hundreds more you'll find in Italy, but I have to narrow it down. For more examples of what to buy, including some prices, check out this post on buying amaro in B.C.).
Averna Amaro was created by monks, as is often the case in France and Italy, in Sicily in the tradition of Csitercian and Cluniac convents. In 1859 the recipe of herbs for infusion with alcohol was passed on to Salvatore Averna, who was both a Judge Peach and a benefactor of the Convent of St. Spirito's Abbe in Caltanisetta. By 1868, Averna had started his own production of the recipe for houseguests and friends. His son, Francesco, took the recipe and presented it at other monestaries and friars throughout Europe, and by 1895 even presented it to the king. In 1912, Averna became the offical supplier of amaro to the royal household in Italy, and after the early death of Francesco, his wife carried on the legacy until his sons again took over and finally began to export their product to America. By the late 1950's, production had become big enough to sustain a large business, and in another twenty years, Averna became one of the most popular amari in Europe. Averna as a company expanded to produce wine and grappa, but it's biggest product and legacy is that of its amaro. It has a dense but smooth taste, combining herbs, roots, citrus, which are steeped in a neutral alcohol base (likely grappa, but again, I don't have confirmation) before a natural caramel is added. Averna on the rocks is a very suitable aperitivo, but typically is consumed neat as a digestivo. It has a high alcohol content for typical amari (32%), and has a fairly heavy, thick, dark, slightly bitter taste, balanced by a sweet vanilla and caramel, making it excellent for a post-meal drink. I often drink it neat at the end of the night, and so should you - it's an excellent starting point for digestivos.
Amaro Montenegro has a somewhat different beginning, as it was produced in 1885in Bologna by an already established spirit manufacturer by the name of Stanislao Cobianchi. He infused a neutral spirit with many combinations of herbs from his travels all over the world before finally settling on the perfect recipe (supposedly after many sleepless nights), and named it in honour of the marriage of Victor Emmanuel III to the second queen of Italy, Princess Elena of Montenegro. The producer claims it to be the top-selling brand in Italy, though I've seen no confirmation of this (yet I have seen numerous claims that Fernet is the top-selling amaro in and out of Italy). The aroma and flavour bring a fair amount of orange peel, along with coriander, red cherry, pekoe tea, cucumber, and other more bitter but subtle components. It is most popular alongside a coffee or espresso, as is the most traditional Italian way.
Amaro Ramazzotti dates back further than any other I've found, to 1815, when Ausano Ramazzotti perfected his recipe in Milan, and sold and shared it as the expected medicinal tonic - supposedly the first Italian bitter liqueur. It wasn't until 30 years later, when Ausano opened up a cafe and started liberally serving his amaro that it started to become popular, and in 1848, he opened a bar next to the new La Scala theatre, where he served Ramazzotti instead of coffee as a digestivo. The business carried on through the family, production and sales grew, especially during WWI, when it became one of the first advertising campaigns, calling itself "the King of aperitifs." The demand continued to grow through the 50's, when a new, much larger factory was built, and again in the 70's, when an even larger factory was built. In the 80's, it was bought by the Pernod Ricard group, increasing its advertising and brand even further, and it became a socialite rage to sip Ramazzotti in Milan. The recipe includes 33 different herbs and spices, in particular orange peel, cardamom, myrrh, galangal, and cinnamon, and tastes quite similar to traditional cola. It's slightly weaker in flavour and proof than Averna, and I find it might be an even easier starting point.
For information on Fernet, check out the posts I did during Fernet February.
Now that we've discussed aperitivos, digestivos, where and what to buy, we can move on to some original cocktails from some talented bartenders...
[[ See my post on amaro aperivos here ]]
[[ See a buying guide for amaro here ]]
[[ See "The One Hit Wonder" from L'abattoir in Vancouver here ]]
[[ See "The Penny Farthing" from Pourhouse here ]]
[[ See an introduction to amaro here ]]
[[ See "The Imperial Eagle" from Bourbon & Branch here ]]
[[ See "Sevilla" from Beretta here ]]
[[ See "Fallow Grave" from the Toronto Temperance Society here ]]
[[ See "The Black Prince" from Phil Ward here ]]
[[ See "Bad Apple" and "Jackson Ward" from Amor y Amargo here ]]
[[ See "The Four Horsemen" from Jay Jones at Shangri-La here ]]
[[ See Colin MacDougall from Blue Water Cafe here ]]
[[ See "Debbie Don't" from Dutch Kills here ]]
[[ See "Welcome to the Dark Side" from Cin Cin here ]]
[[ See "Foolish Games" from Russell Davis here ]]
[[ See "Intro To Aperol" from Audrey Saunders at Pegu Club here ]]
Friday, 6 April 2012
Amaro Aperitivos
First, to whet our palates, are the aperitivos, the most popular of which are Campari, and it's 'younger brother,' Aperol.
In 1860 in a town called Novara, northwest Italy, Gaspare Campari invented a recipe for a new liqueur by infusing alcohol (I have no confirmation, but I assume a grape spirit, or grappa base) with herbs, plants, roots, and fruit. It became so popular among the locals that Gaspare moved to Milano and opened Caffe Campari, where he soon invented Campari's signature cocktail, The Milano-Turino, named after the origins of both his liqueur and Cinzano sweet vermouth. This drink was later named The Americano, and you can see more history on this drink in particular here, plus it's successor, the Negroni, here.It was common at the time to consume bitters (on the English side of things) or amaro after a meal to aid with digestion, but customers began to prefer sipping their Campari before lunch, which began a popular custom of meeting friends in the afternoon at a cafe for a little aperitivo before the big meals. The aperitivo concept was not new, but Campari made it a much more popular social custom.
The recipe has been claimed to include over 60 components, but nobody at Campari has ever spoken a word as to the ingredients. The disctinctive red colour comes from carmine dye, which originally came from crushed cochineal insects. The flavour is very unique and very bitter, but very light in comparison to other amari such as Averna or Fernet. There are hints of spice and menthol, strong herbal flavours, and bitter orange. There are many exciting and classic cocktails that use Campari, and the more you develop your bitter palate, the more you'll just want to just sip it with soda. The Americano is a good starting point for something light, but if you're more of a whiskey drinker, The Boulevardier is a must, with bourbon, sweet vermouth, and just a bit of Campari.
Aperol came much later, after the amaro boom of the mid 1800's. It was created by brothers Luigi and Silvio Barbieri with the intention of making an even lighter amaro than Campari in both flavour and alcohol content (only 11%) to be enjoyed as well as an aperitivo. They unveiled their invention at the Padua Exhibition in 1919, but it didn't really become popular until almost 30 years later. The recipe, as always, is a secret, but has supposedly remained unchanged since its inception. One thing did not, however, and that was the colour, which was basically clear, but a year after the original release (1920), the orange colour was added and used as part of its advertising identity. In the 1930's, Aperol started directing its campaign towards women, claiming its low-alcohol content was a great way for a woman to stay lean and fit but still enjoy drinking. In 1950, the signature cocktail the "Spritz" is invented, combining Aperol with Prosecco and a dash of soda, and the 1960's brought about television advertising, and Aperol really took off in Europe. It wasn't until 2000 that it spread to the rest of the world, when Peggy Guggenheim's exhibition in Venice is sponsored by the Campari group (the company that came to own Aperol) where the liqueur had a big advertising presence and Spritz was served to all manner of famous guests. Fast forward to 2006 and Aperol is suddenly available in the U.S. where it has since been not only delicious but an excellent stepping stone for anyone to get into amaro. This is where you need to start if you haven't yet, and this is definitely where you need to start if you don't have a taste for bitter yet. The biggest flavour is a bitter orange, but gentian and rhubarb are very noticeable as well.While there are no real classic cocktails using it, it can fairly easily be substituted into any Campari drink to decent success. In fact, you'll see a lot of bars doing this, I assume to avoid offending anyone who isn't ready for the acquired taste of Campari. Making a Negroni with half Aperol and half Campari is quite delicious and easier to handle for the uninitiated, and I also find it mixes well with bourbon as is exemplified by an original by Joel Virginillo at The Refinery in Vancouver called "The Boulevardier of Broken Dreams," with 1oz bourbon, 3/4oz Aperol, and 3/4oz Cynar, built over ice.
Speaking of Cynar, I should take a further moment to mention it as it is most often enjoyed as an aperitivo (though also as a digestivo - being both is part of its identity). Also owned by the Campari group as of 1995 (they have quite the monopoly on aperitivos), but much younger, Cynar is an artichoke-based amaro made from only 13 herbs and plants and bottled at only 33 proof. It was launched in 1952 and gained popularity through television advertisements in the 1960's. Drinking an artichoke bitter may sound odd, and I honestly did not enjoy the first few times, but I have come to appreciate what it brings to a cocktail. Speaking of The Refinery, they make a fine Cynar Negroni that's definitely worth a try before you make any judgements on this amaro, and Pourhouse in Gastown has a couple creative Cynar drinks on their menu as well.
Next, we'll look at some popular amaro digestivos, namely Averna, Montenegro, and Ramazzotti.
[[ See my post on amaro digestivos here ]]
[[ See a buying guide for amaro here ]]
[[ See "The One Hit Wonder" from L'abattoir in Vancouver here ]]
[[ See "The Penny Farthing" from Pourhouse here ]]
[[ See an introduction to amaro here ]]
[[ See "The Imperial Eagle" from Bourbon & Branch here ]]
[[ See "Sevilla" from Beretta here ]]
[[ See "Fallow Grave" from the Toronto Temperance Society here ]]
[[ See "The Black Prince" from Phil Ward here ]]
[[ See "Bad Apple" and "Jackson Ward" from Amor y Amargo here ]]
[[ See "The Four Horsemen" from Jay Jones at Shangri-La here ]]
[[ See Colin MacDougall from Blue Water Cafe here ]]
[[ See "Debbie Don't" from Dutch Kills here ]]
[[ See "Welcome to the Dark Side" from Cin Cin here ]]
[[ See "Foolish Games" from Russell Davis here ]]
[[ See "Intro To Aperol" from Audrey Saunders at Pegu Club here ]]
Amaro Part 2: Buying Amaro in B.C.
Now that we've taken a brief look at what exactly amaro is, let's take a look at buying it in B.C. While some are actually cheaper here than in the States (well, Washington at least), others are only available at specialty stores where you'll still be paying a lot more, but if you're Canadian, you're used to it. Below I will list the types available to us here in Canada, which are the more popular types you will see in craft cocktail bars. If you're looking to buy for your home bar, Legacy is the place to go, unless you have time to visit Seattle (I've listed both prices so you can compare).
Averna - from Sicily, originally made in 1868 by a man of the same name. Herbs, roots, and citrus are soaked in a neutral spirit, then caramel is added and is bottled at 64 proof. It will run you $48 at Legacy in Vancouver, or $34 or less in the States.
Aperol - bright orange-colour, orange and rhubarb flavour, slightly bitter, low-proof (see my post on The Petruchio), aperitivo. This is the best starting point if you don't know amaro very well, or don't have a taste for bitter. $22 in the B.C. government liquor store, and $25 in Washington (woot!).
Campari - vibrant red colour, citrus and cinchona flavours, quite bitter (see my post on The Americano), aperativo. $27 in the government stores here, and $33 in Washington (woot again!).
Cynar - made from 13 herbs and plants, including artichoke, and bottled at 33 proof. Launched in 1952 and currently owned and distributed by the Campari group. $38 at Legacy, but only $27 in Washington.
Fernet - very bitter, 80-proof or higher (see my post from Fernet February), made in Lombardia. This will run you $30 in both Washington and B.C.
Lucano - fairly bitter using 37 herbs. $40 at Legacy, and not available to Washington stores (score another for Canada!).
Montenegro - from Bologna in the late 1800's, made from over 40 herbs and bottled at 46 proof, strong orange flavour. $44 at Legacy, $30 in Washington.
Nardini - mainly a grappa producer dating back to the late 1700's, they also produce a fairly light and minty amaro. You won't be able to find this in Canada, but can pick it up in Washington for only $28.
Nonino - grappa-based with very herbal but sweet flavour. $50 in Canada, but in the States you can find it for $24.
Ramazzotti - from Milan, bottled at 60 proof, flavour similar to traditional cola. $34 at Legacy, and $29 in Washington.
There are other less popular ones you can get in the Wasington stores like Santa Maria Genova (which is really light and tasty - another good starting point), Abano, and Rabarbaro Zucca, all in the $30-40ish range. I'm sure there are other states and cities, such as San Francisco, where you can find more, because you always can.
The most typical way to enjoy an amaro is just neat in a liqueur glass after a meal, but often some are suggested to be drunk with soda water and an orange or lemon twist, or on the rocks, again with said twist. No matter how you enjoy it, an amaro is a perfect digestivo, or a perfect ending to an evening of drinking.
I'll be back soon with some information on aperitivo amari, specifically Campari and Aperol.
[[ See my post on amaro digestivos here ]]
[[ See my post on amaro aperivos here ]]
[[ See "The One Hit Wonder" from L'abattoir in Vancouver here ]]
[[ See "The Penny Farthing" from Pourhouse here ]]
[[ See an introduction to amaro here ]]
[[ See "The Imperial Eagle" from Bourbon & Branch here ]]
[[ See "Sevilla" from Beretta here ]]
[[ See "Fallow Grave" from the Toronto Temperance Society here ]]
[[ See "The Black Prince" from Phil Ward here ]]
[[ See "Bad Apple" and "Jackson Ward" from Amor y Amargo here ]]
[[ See "The Four Horsemen" from Jay Jones at Shangri-La here ]]
[[ See Colin MacDougall from Blue Water Cafe here ]]
[[ See "Debbie Don't" from Dutch Kills here ]]
[[ See "Welcome to the Dark Side" from Cin Cin here ]]
[[ See "Foolish Games" from Russell Davis here ]]
[[ See "Intro To Aperol" from Audrey Saunders at Pegu Club here ]]
Averna - from Sicily, originally made in 1868 by a man of the same name. Herbs, roots, and citrus are soaked in a neutral spirit, then caramel is added and is bottled at 64 proof. It will run you $48 at Legacy in Vancouver, or $34 or less in the States.
Aperol - bright orange-colour, orange and rhubarb flavour, slightly bitter, low-proof (see my post on The Petruchio), aperitivo. This is the best starting point if you don't know amaro very well, or don't have a taste for bitter. $22 in the B.C. government liquor store, and $25 in Washington (woot!).
Campari - vibrant red colour, citrus and cinchona flavours, quite bitter (see my post on The Americano), aperativo. $27 in the government stores here, and $33 in Washington (woot again!).
Cynar - made from 13 herbs and plants, including artichoke, and bottled at 33 proof. Launched in 1952 and currently owned and distributed by the Campari group. $38 at Legacy, but only $27 in Washington.
Fernet - very bitter, 80-proof or higher (see my post from Fernet February), made in Lombardia. This will run you $30 in both Washington and B.C.
Lucano - fairly bitter using 37 herbs. $40 at Legacy, and not available to Washington stores (score another for Canada!).
Montenegro - from Bologna in the late 1800's, made from over 40 herbs and bottled at 46 proof, strong orange flavour. $44 at Legacy, $30 in Washington.
Nardini - mainly a grappa producer dating back to the late 1700's, they also produce a fairly light and minty amaro. You won't be able to find this in Canada, but can pick it up in Washington for only $28.
Nonino - grappa-based with very herbal but sweet flavour. $50 in Canada, but in the States you can find it for $24.
Ramazzotti - from Milan, bottled at 60 proof, flavour similar to traditional cola. $34 at Legacy, and $29 in Washington.
There are other less popular ones you can get in the Wasington stores like Santa Maria Genova (which is really light and tasty - another good starting point), Abano, and Rabarbaro Zucca, all in the $30-40ish range. I'm sure there are other states and cities, such as San Francisco, where you can find more, because you always can.
The most typical way to enjoy an amaro is just neat in a liqueur glass after a meal, but often some are suggested to be drunk with soda water and an orange or lemon twist, or on the rocks, again with said twist. No matter how you enjoy it, an amaro is a perfect digestivo, or a perfect ending to an evening of drinking.
I'll be back soon with some information on aperitivo amari, specifically Campari and Aperol.
[[ See my post on amaro digestivos here ]]
[[ See my post on amaro aperivos here ]]
[[ See "The One Hit Wonder" from L'abattoir in Vancouver here ]]
[[ See "The Penny Farthing" from Pourhouse here ]]
[[ See an introduction to amaro here ]]
[[ See "The Imperial Eagle" from Bourbon & Branch here ]]
[[ See "Sevilla" from Beretta here ]]
[[ See "Fallow Grave" from the Toronto Temperance Society here ]]
[[ See "The Black Prince" from Phil Ward here ]]
[[ See "Bad Apple" and "Jackson Ward" from Amor y Amargo here ]]
[[ See "The Four Horsemen" from Jay Jones at Shangri-La here ]]
[[ See Colin MacDougall from Blue Water Cafe here ]]
[[ See "Debbie Don't" from Dutch Kills here ]]
[[ See "Welcome to the Dark Side" from Cin Cin here ]]
[[ See "Foolish Games" from Russell Davis here ]]
[[ See "Intro To Aperol" from Audrey Saunders at Pegu Club here ]]
Thursday, 5 April 2012
Amaro Part 1: What is Amaro?
This will likely be the final month focusing on one particular ingredient (until I feel compelled to do it again, anyway), and a fitting way to end is with an Italian digestivo. We will discuss amari, their origins and production, some major types, then visit another collection of great North American bars for some original recipes.
Amari (yes, that is the plural form of amaro) have seen huge popularity over the last year or so, mostly due to the boom of mixology and cocktail culture, and that's great news for us here on this side of the pond because they are delicious and complex liqueurs, and also because the majority of them have been impossible to get outside of Europe. Still now, there are tons of brands and bottlings that we will never see without traveling to Italy, but there is also a decent selection available now even in Canada (in fact, if you saw my post on buying alcohol in the states, a lot of amari are actually cheaper in Canada - if you can believe it).
So what is an amaro?
The definition of amaro, which means "bitter" in Italian, is not really specific. It is just what we call Italian bitter liqueurs (a liqueur being a spirit to which sugar has been added). All other factors range all over the place - typically they are digestivos, or digestifs, meaning they are drunk after dinner to 'aid with digestion' (this usually just refers to drinks that are sweeter and/or use darker, heavier liquors/liqueurs) such as Averna or Ramazzotti, but there are also aperitivos, or aperitifs, which whet the appetite, such as Campari or Aperol. Their alcohol content can range from that of wine to over 40% like most spirits, they are consumed neat, or in cocktails, or on ice, or with tonic, or any number of ways. Some of them are newer, but some are hundreds of years old, and even production differs somewhat from brand to brand. Again in general, amari are made by macerating roots, herbs, flowers, bark, peels, or just about anything in a spirit or wine (usually a grappa base, which is a wine or grape brandy), then mixed with sugar or syrup, and often aged in a cask or just a bottle (aging will help the flavours mix and balance better). Liqueurs of this fashion are produced all over Europe, not just Italy, particularly in Germany (called "Krauterlikor," ex. Jagermeister) and France (called "amer," ex. Amer Picon). Amaro refers specifically to those made in Italy. The flavours range widely, and while they are literally named "bitter," not all of them are actually all that bitter (going from Fernet Branca to Campari to Ramazzotti is a big range of bitterness).
Originally created as medicinal tonics, as basically all spirits and cocktails can be traced to, the formulae and tradition carried on, but the medicinal validities did not. Herb knowledge was its highest in European monasteries, where most of these liqueurs came from (see also Benedectine, Chartreuse, etc), but Italy was somewhat different in that it had more of an Arab influence, which brought with it a knowledge and use of spices, many of which are still used in amari you can taste today. It wasn't until the mid 19th century that mass production began, and most well-known amari date back to this time.
There are numerous classifications:
"medium," around 60 proof with a very balanced flavour (ex. Averna),
"Fernet," much more bitter than the others (ex. Fernet Branca),
"light," lighter in colour and flavour (ex. Nonino),
"alpine," low-proof, flavoured with alpine herbs and is smokey in taste (ex. Zara),
"vermouth," low-proof wine based amari very similar to actual vermouth (ex. Don Bairo),
"carciofo," lower proof aperitivos made with artichoke (ex. Cynar),
"tartufo," made in Umbria from black truffles,
"China," made with cinchona bark (though most amari are, and I haven't found exactly what else makes this one different),
and "rabarbaro," made with rhubarb (ex. Zucca).
Amari are wildly popular outside of Italy, particularly in South America (Fernet Branca and Coke is Argentina's national drink), but also all over Europe. Fernet Branca has been particularly popular in San Francisco too, but Italian communities in New York and Boston also kept a market for a lot of amari. As I mentioned, popularity is increasing all over the place because of their use in cocktails, and one of the reasons is versatility. Very bitter amari like Fernet Branca can be treated as bitters in a drink, while sweeter, softer ones like Montenegro can almost be used in place of vermouth, and some like Campari are already staples in classic and influential cocktails like The Negroni, a drink that itself has spawned tons of variations by even just switching the type of amaro (a Cynar Negroni is a popular one). The range of use and flavour is very broad and exciting.
I will be back soon to discuss buying amari in B.C., then specifically about a few of the most popular amari, separated into digestivos and aperitivos, then we will move on to some new, original drinks from Vancouver, Seattle, New York, and San Francisco.
[[ See my post on amaro digestivos here ]]
[[ See my post on amaro aperivos here ]]
[[ See a buying guide for amaro here ]]
[[ See "The One Hit Wonder" from L'abattoir in Vancouver here ]]
[[ See "The Penny Farthing" from Pourhouse here ]]
[[ See "The Imperial Eagle" from Bourbon & Branch here ]]
[[ See "Sevilla" from Beretta here ]]
[[ See "Fallow Grave" from the Toronto Temperance Society here ]]
[[ See "The Black Prince" from Phil Ward here ]]
[[ See "Bad Apple" and "Jackson Ward" from Amor y Amargo here ]]
[[ See "The Four Horsemen" from Jay Jones at Shangri-La here ]]
[[ See Colin MacDougall from Blue Water Cafe here ]]
[[ See "Debbie Don't" from Dutch Kills here ]]
[[ See "Welcome to the Dark Side" from Cin Cin here ]]
[[ See "Foolish Games" from Russell Davis here ]]
[[ See "Intro To Aperol" from Audrey Saunders at Pegu Club here ]]
Amari (yes, that is the plural form of amaro) have seen huge popularity over the last year or so, mostly due to the boom of mixology and cocktail culture, and that's great news for us here on this side of the pond because they are delicious and complex liqueurs, and also because the majority of them have been impossible to get outside of Europe. Still now, there are tons of brands and bottlings that we will never see without traveling to Italy, but there is also a decent selection available now even in Canada (in fact, if you saw my post on buying alcohol in the states, a lot of amari are actually cheaper in Canada - if you can believe it). So what is an amaro?
The definition of amaro, which means "bitter" in Italian, is not really specific. It is just what we call Italian bitter liqueurs (a liqueur being a spirit to which sugar has been added). All other factors range all over the place - typically they are digestivos, or digestifs, meaning they are drunk after dinner to 'aid with digestion' (this usually just refers to drinks that are sweeter and/or use darker, heavier liquors/liqueurs) such as Averna or Ramazzotti, but there are also aperitivos, or aperitifs, which whet the appetite, such as Campari or Aperol. Their alcohol content can range from that of wine to over 40% like most spirits, they are consumed neat, or in cocktails, or on ice, or with tonic, or any number of ways. Some of them are newer, but some are hundreds of years old, and even production differs somewhat from brand to brand. Again in general, amari are made by macerating roots, herbs, flowers, bark, peels, or just about anything in a spirit or wine (usually a grappa base, which is a wine or grape brandy), then mixed with sugar or syrup, and often aged in a cask or just a bottle (aging will help the flavours mix and balance better). Liqueurs of this fashion are produced all over Europe, not just Italy, particularly in Germany (called "Krauterlikor," ex. Jagermeister) and France (called "amer," ex. Amer Picon). Amaro refers specifically to those made in Italy. The flavours range widely, and while they are literally named "bitter," not all of them are actually all that bitter (going from Fernet Branca to Campari to Ramazzotti is a big range of bitterness). Originally created as medicinal tonics, as basically all spirits and cocktails can be traced to, the formulae and tradition carried on, but the medicinal validities did not. Herb knowledge was its highest in European monasteries, where most of these liqueurs came from (see also Benedectine, Chartreuse, etc), but Italy was somewhat different in that it had more of an Arab influence, which brought with it a knowledge and use of spices, many of which are still used in amari you can taste today. It wasn't until the mid 19th century that mass production began, and most well-known amari date back to this time.
There are numerous classifications: "medium," around 60 proof with a very balanced flavour (ex. Averna),
"Fernet," much more bitter than the others (ex. Fernet Branca),
"light," lighter in colour and flavour (ex. Nonino),
"alpine," low-proof, flavoured with alpine herbs and is smokey in taste (ex. Zara),
"vermouth," low-proof wine based amari very similar to actual vermouth (ex. Don Bairo),
"carciofo," lower proof aperitivos made with artichoke (ex. Cynar),
"tartufo," made in Umbria from black truffles,
"China," made with cinchona bark (though most amari are, and I haven't found exactly what else makes this one different),
and "rabarbaro," made with rhubarb (ex. Zucca).
Amari are wildly popular outside of Italy, particularly in South America (Fernet Branca and Coke is Argentina's national drink), but also all over Europe. Fernet Branca has been particularly popular in San Francisco too, but Italian communities in New York and Boston also kept a market for a lot of amari. As I mentioned, popularity is increasing all over the place because of their use in cocktails, and one of the reasons is versatility. Very bitter amari like Fernet Branca can be treated as bitters in a drink, while sweeter, softer ones like Montenegro can almost be used in place of vermouth, and some like Campari are already staples in classic and influential cocktails like The Negroni, a drink that itself has spawned tons of variations by even just switching the type of amaro (a Cynar Negroni is a popular one). The range of use and flavour is very broad and exciting.
I will be back soon to discuss buying amari in B.C., then specifically about a few of the most popular amari, separated into digestivos and aperitivos, then we will move on to some new, original drinks from Vancouver, Seattle, New York, and San Francisco.
[[ See my post on amaro digestivos here ]]
[[ See my post on amaro aperivos here ]]
[[ See a buying guide for amaro here ]]
[[ See "The One Hit Wonder" from L'abattoir in Vancouver here ]]
[[ See "The Penny Farthing" from Pourhouse here ]]
[[ See "The Imperial Eagle" from Bourbon & Branch here ]]
[[ See "Sevilla" from Beretta here ]]
[[ See "Fallow Grave" from the Toronto Temperance Society here ]]
[[ See "The Black Prince" from Phil Ward here ]]
[[ See "Bad Apple" and "Jackson Ward" from Amor y Amargo here ]]
[[ See "The Four Horsemen" from Jay Jones at Shangri-La here ]]
[[ See Colin MacDougall from Blue Water Cafe here ]]
[[ See "Debbie Don't" from Dutch Kills here ]]
[[ See "Welcome to the Dark Side" from Cin Cin here ]]
[[ See "Foolish Games" from Russell Davis here ]]
[[ See "Intro To Aperol" from Audrey Saunders at Pegu Club here ]]
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