Showing posts with label beefeater. Show all posts
Showing posts with label beefeater. Show all posts

Wednesday, 15 February 2012

Fernet February: "The Denny Triangle" from Jamie Boudreau at Canon

Today's drinks come from one of the bigger names in bartending and "mixology," Mr. Jamie Boudreau. Who is Jamie? Well, I'll let him do the talking himself here on his blog.
His online show Raising The Bar is a great resource for creative cocktails and learning some new and fancy things outside of the norm, his blog has been filling up my journal with delicious new libations to test out, and he's dedicated a newer blog only to cocktails involving St. Germain. These are all great resources for experimenting at home, but also good resources for trying and learning new things on the job if you're a professional.

One thing that is obvious from reading his blogs and recipes is how much he loves his bitters (he even makes and sells his own cherry bitters), and this includes amari. Some of his wild and crazy creations include the Zim Zala Bim, which uses a 1/4oz of orange bitters, and the Aromatic Collins, which uses a full ounce of aromatic bitters. Lots of others use amari, and his site even has a recipe for creating your own amaro at home in an attempt to recreate the taste of the ever-elusive Amer Picon.

Jamie currently runs the bar at Canon in Seattle, a new but renowned establishment with a ridiculous selection of booze and bitters (check this out), which is also apparently the new home to Murray "The Blur" Stenson.
Anyway, on to the drinking...

The one I wanted to share today I found on Raising The Bar, and it's one I often enjoy at home when I'm thirsty and have grapefruits around (and hopefully it's after noon). Gin holds a solid base underneath a lot of juice, and a lot of sweetness from the Benedictine, so Fernet comes out as subtle as I feel it should be in a drink.
When I emailed Jamie and asked for his permission to share this cocktail on this blog, he sent me another recipe for something that looks ridiculous at a glance. I actually mixed one as soon as I was finished the email because I was so curious. Look at the recipe below, you'll see what I mean...

First, here is
Denny Triangle Cocktail

2oz Beefeater gin
3/4oz Benedictine
1/4oz Fernet Branca
2oz grapefruit juice
Shake all ingredients with ice and strain into a cocktail glass.


You can see Jamie make the drink himself here on Raising The Bar.

And here is the the little present he gave me... a seriously interesting and complex bunch of flavours, and while the Fernet is super forward here, it's actually not as overpowering as I thought it would be...


Miseria Cocktail

1 part Carpano Antica
1 part Fernet Branca
3 dashes orange bitters

Stir with ice, serve into a chilled rocks glass, garnish with flamed orange zest

Thanks for the recipes, Jamie!

[[ see the Fernet February introduction here ]]
[[ see the "Gastown Swizzle" from L'Abattoir here ]]

[[ see the "Chinatown Sour" from The Keefer here ]]
[[ see "Pandemonium" from Veneto Tapa Lounge here ]]
[[ see "The Bittercup" from Pourhouse here ]]
[[ see "The Vested Bartender" from Boneta here ]]
[[ see "The Parliament" from The Diamond here ]]
[[ see "Parliament Hill" from The Hideout here ]]
[[ see "The Lucky Lady" from The Refinery here ]]


Jamie's photo by Antoinette Bruno, ICC Food Porn Gallery

Thursday, 9 February 2012

Fernet February: "The Vested Bartender" from Boneta

Welcome back to Fernet February, where we will be enjoying a new, original cocktail each post from the creative minds of bartenders in the Pacific Northwest.

Today's cocktail comes from the lovely bar and restaurant, Boneta, hidden in the brick alleys of Vancouver's Gastown. It has one of the best cocktail programs in Vancouver, and some of the best service I've had here in the city as well. You can see my review of Boneta here.
The cocktail was created by Mathieu Faure, an excellent bartender in skill and service, and also one of the few ways to get Amer Picon in Vancouver (as he has his father send over a couple bottles occasionally from France). "The Vested Bartender," as he calls it, has an interesting bitter bite to it along with a lot of herbal texture, but is also balanced nicely by the sweetness from the amaro and Maraschino. It makes a great aperitif before dinner, or just a nice early evening sipper.

The Vested Bartender
The next best thing to having one at home...

45ml Beefeater gin
20ml Ramazzotti Amaro
10ml Maraschino liqueur
5ml Fernet Branca
2 dashes Regan’s Orange bitters


Stir and serve in a cocktail coupe with a small twist of orange zest.

Now for those of you (like me) who use jiggers with ounce measurements rather than mL measurements, here is the basic translation (though note that these had to be approximated a little bit, and using the mL measurements is the proper way to go to achieve the taste that was intended):

1.5oz Beefeater gin
2/3oz Ramazzotti Amaro
1/3oz Maraschino liqueur
1/6oz Fernet Branca
2 dashes Regan’s Orange bitters

Now that is a little tough to accomplish as most jiggers only have 1/4 and 1/2 measurements, but you can guess at it by doing a little less than 3/4oz Ramazzotti, a little less than 1/2 Maraschino, and a little less than 1/4 Fernet. Taste as you're stirring. I found I overdid the Maraschino a little bit, and added too little Ramazzotti.

In the end, you should definitely head down to Boneta and taste this drink as properly made by the staff at Boneta, and stick around and try some other drinks as well because they have some great selections on their menu. If Mathieu is there to make you "The Vested Bartender" himself, have him also make you a Brooklyn or be adventurous and try a Trinidad Sour (Boneta is where I tried my first one). If you don't know what that is, you're in for a delicious surprise.

Thank you to Mathieu for this cocktail, and thank you to Simon Kaulback, the general manager of Boneta, for submitting the recipe and for running such an excellent establishment.
Sante, my friends!

Please share your favourite Fernet cocktails, or your original creations below in the comments section!
And, be sure to stop by again in a few days for another original creation using Fernet by another local bar...

[[ see the Fernet February introduction here ]]
[[ see the "Gastown Swizzle" from L'Abattoir here ]]
[[ see the "Dark and Fernet-y" from Rob Roy here ]]
[[ see the "Chinatown Sour" from The Keefer here ]]
[[ see "Pandemonium" from Veneto Tapa Lounge here ]]
[[ see "The Bittercup" from Pourhouse here ]]
[[ see "The Parliament" from The Diamond here ]]
[[ see "Parliament Hill" from The Hideout here ]]
[[ see "The Lucky Lady" from The Refinery here ]]
[[ see "The Denny Triangle" from Jamie Boudreau / Canon here ]]

Monday, 23 January 2012

Review: Boneta Restaurant


So I can easily say that Boneta is one of my favourite restaurants and bars in Vancouver. Recently changing locations from the edge of Gastown to the heart of Gastown (as most good food and drink in Vancouver seems to be), the ambience is great. Walking on the Gastown brick into alleys and hidden doorways leading to fantastic cuisine and treasure troves of fantastic bartenders is part of what I feel is the Vancouver cocktail experience (see also L'Abbatoir, Pourhouse, and The Diamond). While the bar is small, it's well-worth the wait on a busy night for some of the best service and best cocktails I've had in my adventures. The lighting is perfect for imbibing some classics, the windows show you the old Vancouver brick, and like all my favourites, I feel classy here. I really think that's one of the keys to a great bar, along with excellent service, and of course cocktail quality (see again Pourhouse, and also The West).

Boneta was discovered in its original location ("discovered" for me, that is) by my brother while he was visiting from San Francisco. After taking him to Pourhouse he decided to grab some food and another drink (sadly, after I had left) and stopped at Boneta after eyeing the menu. He left raving about the food, the drink, and the service, so of course I had to come see it for myself. The first time I visited, I was impressed by the food, but even moreso by both the interesting cocktail menu and the great bartending service. I had the pleasure of meeting Jess Nichol, who made me not only some great Boneta originals, but also pulled out a hidden bottle of American rye for a finely made Sazerac. Jess passed away last summer, and Vancouver and its cocktail culture will miss him and his skill. I am very lucky to have had the pleasure of being served by him.

Each time I've visited Boneta since I've been even further impressed by the food, the drink, and moreso the service (particularly by Mathieu Faure, who has served us in some capacity each time we've visited). Aside from one bad experience with one bartender in particular, I feel the service has been above and beyond (including both my lady and I receiving sparkling wine on the house, delivered by Mathieu himself upon noticing us at the door, because of the wait we had to endure for a seat at the bar on a busy night).
The menu always has interesting modern cocktails both from Boneta itself, and from the best bars in the world, like Milk & Honey, Death & Co., Rickhouse, French 75, etc. All the drinks tend to be simple and classic in mindset, which is usually what catches more of my interest. This is not as much of a place to find crazy house-bitters or infused spirits, though they do have some interesting tea and fruit syrups in their originals. As creative as those practices are, I always find myself drawn to more classic tastes.
I have to thank Boneta in particular for serving me the only true Brooklyn cocktail I've ever had (because of the impossibility of finding Picon Amer anywhere near where I live). Mr. Faure had his father send some over from France, and I'm sure there are a lot of thankful people in Vancouver.

Some current libations that stand out for me are the Vested Bartender, featuring Beefeater gin, Cynar amaro, Maraschino liqueur, and Fernet Branca, and the Gastown Proud - a variation on a Perfect Manhattan - featuring Buffalo Trace bourbon, Martini Bianco, Punt e Mes, Maraschino liqueur, and Peychaud's bitters. Overall, what I've enjoyed the most here are the 'bartenders choice' cocktails, which have never disappointed and shown us some amazing drinks for the first time, like the aforementioned Brooklyn, and also the Trinidad Sour - which is still a completely insane cocktail you must try if you have the balls.
Speaking of balls, actually, I should mention that one visit, after a very long, cold, and wet walk around the city for a history of crime in Vancouver tour, my lady and I stopped in for a drink at Boneta. My lady asked for "something with balls," which prompted Mathieu to make her a Brooklyn with Buffalo Trace, and I'm not sure anything else would have suited the mood more perfectly. That is one of the most exciting things about going to a great bar - trusting the bartender's judgement based on your mood. Boneta is definitely a place you can trust in that respect.

If you ever find yourself in Gastown - and you better, because that's where most of our great food and drink is - I definitely recommend Boneta Restaurant, particularly if you feel like having a few drinks. Thank you to Mathieu and the late Jess for their great service and cocktails!

[[ Check out "The Vested Bartender" cocktail here ]]




Monday, 21 November 2011

A Beginner's Guide to Gin

Gin is definitely THE cocktail spirit. It mixes so well with so many ingredients - it's light and summery with fruit, but it's also herbal and heavy when mixed with bitters or amari or vermouths. It has a long history, it's diverse in flavour profile, and it's an integral part of many classic and iconic cocktails, such as the Martini.

I've met people who say gin is awful, harsh, flavourless, and other manners of sad and untrue things. Anyone familiar at all with spirits or cocktails will completely disagree, but part of the process of enjoying these things is developing your palate. An important part of this as well is drinking quality products and quality cocktails. This comes down to what you buy, what bar you go to, what cocktail you're having, and of course, who your bartender is.

Cheap gins, like any other cheap product, can be harsh and will give you nasty hangovers. Even the worst gins, though, are endlessly easier to withstand and mix than the worst whiskeys.

So here is a little info for the beginner on gin itself, then a few suggestions on what to pick up at the liquor store, and a couple simple cocktails to try at home if you feel like opening the door to the most versatile of spirits.

How it's made:

Gin is a spirit, meaning that it's been distilled, for example from grain or fruit (usually wheat). Distillation is a process of boiling a liquid at a lower temperature than the boiling point of water, and capturing the vapours, which will be alcohol and other flavourful elements. The vapour is "infused" with botanicals, usually by vapourizing the alcohol through a chamber containing herbs, fruits, and spices. Gin can not contain sugar or colorants - in fact, the only thing that can be added to the distillate is water, which is used to dilute the alcohol to 40%, the typical percentage for a spirit.


History:

Gin essentially came from juniper berries, which throughout history have been regarded as medicinal. By the 11th century people were distilling the berries and using it as a medical remedy for disease. By the 17th century, the Dutch had started redistilling malt or wine with juniper and herbs, which was again sold as a medicine called genever. It made its way over to England, where low quality grain that couldn't be used for beer or ale was distilled and used to make a simpler form of genever, shortened to simply "gin." Because of how easy it was to make, and how drunk people got from it, it became wildly popular, taking over about half of all alcohol shops in London.

It followed British sailors to the tropics and was used to mask the terribly bitter flavour of quinine (a medicine used to battle malaria), which at the time was dissolved in carbonated water (then and now known as "tonic water"). This was the birth of the Gin and Tonic, still enjoyed today though much more palatable.

Gin was also often mixed with citrus fruit for sailors to avoid scurvey, and this was integral to the creation of many modern cocktails.

Types of Gin:

  • Distilled Gin - a redistilled white grain spirit flavoured with juniper
  • Compound Gin - a flavoured grain spirit without added distillation
  • London Dry Gin - a redistilled grain containing other added botanicals than juniper
  • Sloe Gin - a gin flavoured with blackthorn fruit
  • Old Tom Gin - distilled gin that has been slightly sweetened
Nowadays, you will basically only see London Dry Gins or Distilled Gins.

Brands of Gin

First of all, here are some easy to find, cheaper gins that you can pick up in the B.C. liquor store, and some general thoughts.

Gordon's Dry - probably the worst gin you will find in a B.C. store, but it's still overall not that bad. This is the beauty of gin, even the worst isn't horrible, opposed to whiskey (and we have some of the worst tasting whiskey here in Canada).

$24 for a 750mL bottle.

Heavy juniper taste, with a little citrus and spice afterwards. Very simple flavour, kind of harsh, alright for mixing.

Tanqueray - definitely a go-to gin for just about anything. Its flavour is a little complex, with a lot of juniper, but also other herbs and spice (like coriander and angelica), and a little citrus. Mixes well with everything, but is also interesting enough to even drink old-fashioned. Drinking this guy will make you feel like you're walking through a garden or a forest. It has won gold and silver awards over the last decade, which is a good sign.

$27 for a 750mL bottle, and definitely worth the extra $3 than Gordon's.


Bombay Sapphire - this gin is produced by Bacardi and has only been around since 1987, which makes it less interesting. I find it a little too perfumey, but it's very light and fairly easy to drink.
It is flavoured with almond, lemon, liquorice, juniper, orris root, angelica, coriander, cassia, cubeb, and grains of paradise. I don't know what some of those are either ;)

You definitely get the citrus from it easily, and it's much less herbal and much more floral than Tanqueray. Bombay has had very mixed reviews at spirit competitions, which is not a great sign.
$28 for a 750mL bottle, and definitely not worth the extra $1 than Tanqueray.

Beefeater - for a cheap gin, you can't really fault this one. It's not as interesting or complex as Tanqueray, but it's definitely smoother than Gordon's and not overly floral like Bombay. It contains juniper, angelica, coriander, liquorice, almonds, orris, oranges, and lemon. There are a lot of citrus notes, so it lends itself very well to cocktails with fruit.

$24 for a 750mL bottle, and an excellent starting point for someone interested in gin.

So, if you're just trying to get into gin, I suggest Beefeater. It's cheap, easy to drink, and mixes very well. If you're already familiar with gin and want to experience more interesting flavours and cocktails, Tanqueray is the cheap way to go.

Here are some more expensive brands that are very good and absolutely worth a try if you haven't:

Beefeater 24 - this isn't actually that expensive. I use this one quite often for mixing drinks. It's very smooth, and has a lot of subtle flavours that can be brought out in cocktails. It's quite light and not the most interesting compared to something wonderful like Hendrick's, but definitely worth the extra few dollars.

It's named 24 because it is infused with botanicals for 24 hours, the same as Beefeater London Dry, except that this time they've added Chinese green tea, Japanese Sencha tea, and grapefruit rind.

$30 for a 750mL bottle


Hendrick's - this gin is basically it's own style. It tastes very different than most other gins, and has a lot of vegetable character to it. It's very smooth and aromatic and delicious, and makes a fantastic martini or any cocktail containing fruit or vegetable juice. It has a different distillation process using a different still than other gins, and is infused with juniper, but also with Bulgarian rose petals and cucumber. It has been named the "Best Gin in the World," and won numerous awards. If you have the money to spend and want to treat yourself, this is the one to go for. It's easy to find in B.C. liquor stores.

$44.50 for a 750mL bottle


Victoria Gin - this is my lady's favourite brand. It's incredibly smooth, almost buttery. The botanical flavours are quite light, but still present, and the juniper isn't overpowering. Perfect for very light and fancy cocktails, and probably wasted on tonic and fruit. It's made right here in B.C. on Vancouver Island, and has won awards worldwide. Unfortunately, the sad state of alcoholic affairs in Canada is such that Victoria Gin is cheaper to buy imported in the United States than it is to buy right here where it's made. Seriously. You pay less in California than in Victoria. They also have an Oaken Gin that is aged in barrels and has a delicious, dark, vanilla, and caramel flavour.

$50 for a 750mL bottle


Martin Miller Gin - this is probably my favourite, or at least tied with Hendrick's. It's distilled in the most traditional of ways in England, infused with juniper, orange and lemon peel, coriander, liquorice, cinnamon, cassia, orris, angelica, and nutmeg, and finally diluted with glacier water from Iceland (seriously). The taste is incredibly smooth and subtlely complex, and really changes the taste of cocktails you're used to. You can only find this one in an independent store, like on Main Street or at Legacy, or in the U.S. (where it's almost $30 cheaper).

$50 for a 750mL bottle


There are others you can find in the store, but this a very good starting point. Nowadays there are some great gins being made using neutral grape spirits, rather than grain, and have a very different flavour. G'Vine from France is one I tried that completely changed the complexion of the cocktails I was trying, and is smooth straight, and very different than dry gins, with very little juniper character and a very light and sweet taste. I have only found it at Legacy for $90, but as spirits and cocktails get more popular, things will get better. We have to believe.


Cocktails

So finally, here are a couple classic gin cocktails to test out with your new bottle. If you get a decent spirit, and follow the recipe as best you can, and use fresh fruit juice and vermouth that isn't stale, you will make good, basic drinks. It's that easy.

The Martini


2oz of gin
anything from a splash or rinse of dry vermouth if you love gin and don't like vermouth (called a "dry" martini)
to 1/2, 1oz, or 2oz of dry vermouth (called a "wet" martini, which is the way they were traditionally made, and if you want to get even more traditional, use sweet vermouth - which at 2:1 vermouth to gin is called a "Martinez.")
1 dash Orange bitters (optional).

This is the ONLY drink I feel you should shake that does not contain egg, juice, or cream. You can still stir it in a container filled with ice if you prefer, which won't get it as cold (and therefore it won't taste quite as good), but if you're just getting into cocktails you probably won't notice the difference.
Shake until your hands hurt (usually about 20 seconds), or stir for 30-60 seconds.

Strain into a cocktail glass and garnish with an olive to be traditional, or a lemon twist for something different, or a piece of cucumber if you're using Hendrick's, or anything you feel will match the flavours in the gin you're using.

The Gimlet
2oz gin
1/2 oz lime juice
1/4 oz simple syrup
Shake with ice in a cocktail shaker and strain into a cocktail glass. Garnish with lime zest or slice.

The White Lady
2oz gin
1oz Cointreau
1oz lemon juice
1 egg white
Shake with ice in a cocktail shaker and strain into a cocktail glass. Garnish with lemon zest.

Tom Collins
1 and 1/2oz gin
1/2oz simple syrup
1oz lemon juice
Combine ingredients in a tall glass. Fill with ice. Top with club soda, and garnish with a slice of lemon.

Be sure to enjoy it the VERY old fashioned way as well, with tonic water (adjust your measurements to your taste buds). The possibilities are endless and endlessly fun with gin, and I hope if you had a bad experience with gin at any point, you keep your mind open to giving it another go, because you're missing out!

Please continue on to read my much later post about buying gin in B.C., which has more specifics on certain brands, prices, and buying locations.