Showing posts with label terminology. Show all posts
Showing posts with label terminology. Show all posts

Monday, 20 January 2014

Things You Should Know About Whiskey

I consider myself lucky to work in a bar frequented by so many knowledgeable drinkers. Many know not only what they want, but exactly how they want it made and are quality-checking my every move. On the other hand, many have no idea what they want, so my responsibility is to find something new and exciting, thereby encouraging a little education. 

There are also those who know what they want, but know little about it. The best way to learn is by experiencing, but most of these customers will pick something they recognize off the backbar rather than asking for some advice. We trust what we know, but this can be limiting - usually to products that care more about being recognized than being good-quality!


Whiskey is my drink of choice, so I feel compelled to share some general knowledge for those who are interested but can use some facts along with their dram. These are common questions and what I consider important information. 

What is it?
Whiskey by definition is fermented and distilled grain. There are numerous sub-categories defined primarily by geography and the grains and production methods used. These categories are legal definitions, some very simple and loose (ex. Canadian), and some very strict and specific (ex. American). Here are the most common types and their general definitions (I am, of course, paraphrasing):

Scotch: whisky (no “e”) produced in Scotland from malted barley (and often other grains), aged in wood barrels, and can contain colouring. Scotch has a wide range of flavours, many being earthy and smoky due to the burning of peat to dry out the malt. It also has a range of quality, with “single malt” regulations guaranteeing a good product, and “blended” guaranteeing nothing. 

Bourbon: produced in the U.S. (not specifically Kentucky) from at least 51% corn and aged in newly-charred oak barrels. Tennessee whiskey is bourbon produced in Tennessee including the extra step of filtering through maple charcoal after distillation. Bourbon is fuller-bodied, sweeter, and more approachable than most whiskies. 

Rye: produced in the U.S. from at least 51% rye and aged in newly-charred oak barrels. Rye tends to be dry, light, and spicy. It was the most commonly used whiskey in classic cocktails (bourbon came much later).

Irish: produced in Ireland from any number of grains and blends (though often malted and unmalted barley) and aged in wood barrels. These whiskies tend to be more soft and subtle than Scotch with no smokiness. 

Canadian: produced in Canada from any grain, aged in any barrel, and can contain colouring and flavouring. Despite being called and labelled “rye” for historical purposes, most Canadian whiskies are made from corn and contain no rye at all. This lack of regulation is why Canadian whisky is typically poor-quality. They tend to lack flavour, and with a couple exceptions should be avoided altogether.

I am often asked questions like “what’s the difference between Scotch and whiskey?” or “can you make my Whiskey Sour with bourbon instead of whiskey?” So, let the above be the lesson. These are all types of whiskey. 

While Scotland, Ireland, and the U.S. have the most history and reputation, many other countries around the world are producing great products, including Japan, New Zealand, England, India, Australia, and Belgium, just to name a few. Their production methods and regulations vary, but we won’t get into that now as you won’t encounter them as often.

How are they labelled?
Most producers only reveal what they have to on a label, which varies by country. There are certain words to look for, like “straight” with American whiskey, which legally claims it has been aged for at least two years, and “single malt” for Scotch, claiming it has been produced only from malted barley at one distillery. The word “blended” refers to the whiskey being a combination of multiple products, usually from multiple distilleries. Having words like “bourbon” or “Scotch” on a label is verifying a certain level of quality - by law - whereas “Canadian Straight Rye Whisky” means basically nothing. That’s where category knowledge will help you out.

Age labels refer to the youngest whiskey in the bottle. This is to stop producers from adding a drop of 20-year old whiskey to 3-year old and labelling it as the former. 

What does “blended” mean? Should I avoid it?
Blended whiskey just refers to the product being a combination of multiple distillations. This isn’t always a bad thing. In fact, basically all whiskies are blends unless specifically labelled “single barrel” or “single cask.” Whiskey can be a blend of multiple barrels, years, grains, or even distilleries. When discussing, “blended” usually refers to Blended Scotch Whisky, which is made up of 50-90% grain whiskies (ones made from individual grains) along with single malts. Blends make up for about 90% of Scotland’s whisky production, and are some of the top-selling spirits in the world (including the #1-selling whisky, Johnny Walker). Like everything else, there are good and bad ones. 

If I don’t like one brand, should I avoid everything they make?
No! Basically every distillery has multiple products made in multiple ways. Just because you don’t like one particular product doesn’t mean that the single barrel or sherry-casked version isn’t much better. For example, Johnny Walker Blue, Black, and Green are all considerably higher quality than Red. For a broader example, Jim Beam White Label is produced by the same company as Booker’s, Baker’s, and Knob Creek, which is a diverse range of bourbon.

How should I be drinking it?
There is no “right” way to drink it. It’s your drink and you can enjoy it any way you please. Just know that diluting it too much or chilling it will both reduce aroma and flavour. Lowering the temperature of your mouth essentially numbs the palate, so you will experience less if you have it on the rocks or with a chilled whisky stone. (I’m sure I don’t need to mention that adding any kind of soda or mixer will mask the flavour of the whiskey entirely).

There’s nothing wrong with adding a little water. In fact, it can often enhance flavours by lowering the proof, allowing your smell and taste receptors to find more behind the ethanol. However, it’s best to only add a little and to always use distilled water rather than tap or sparkling, both of which can affect flavour. (Many whisky purists insist on adding regional spring water, but if you’re unsure or unable, just go with distilled). Spirits over 50% ABV will benefit from a little water. 

Also, a quick rule for bartenders: no one should water another’s whisky - always serve water on the side. 

And of course, if you’re in the mood for a cocktail, a properly-made Old-Fashioned (spirit, bitters, sugar, water) is the simplest, purest, and oldest drink there is. It’s the best way to enjoy your whiskey if you want to mix it, with the Manhattan and Sazerac to follow. 

Does higher price mean higher quality?
No - though this is a better bet than a lot of other spirits (particularly vodka and brandy). A general rule is that the product price should match the difficulty of its production. That is why whiskies produced in small volumes or old-ages cost more than young whiskies mass-produced across multiple distilleries. Some companies slyly take advantage of this and market their products as “premium” or “top-shelf” and price them higher, when they’re actually just selling average (or sometimes poor-quality) spirits. Trust your taste-buds before you trust a price-tag! 

Bigger reputation doesn’t mean better quality either. In fact, it’s usually the opposite. The brands that advertise the most should make you wonder why they’re not spending these resources on developing and improving their products. If you’re not sure where to start, get some advice from a bartender, friend, or do a little research on your own. Don’t just choose what you recognize on a shelf.  

Who should enjoy it?
Everyone! Whiskey isn’t “an old man’s drink” (In fact, no drink should be gender specific, but that’s another rant altogether). It’s not always harsh and dark brown and high-proof. In fact, many whiskies are soft, approachable, and sweet. A bad product or bad experience can be off-putting, but remember that there is a lot of diversity by type, style, region, and quality. Some whiskies taste like you ate the remains of yesterday’s campfire, some taste like honey and tree fruit, and some taste like buttery toast and vanilla. Try every style you can and find what you like.

Wednesday, 30 May 2012

Vermouth & Fortified Wine Classification

Between travel and my new jobs and projects (including writing for other websites) I've lost a considerable amount of time that I would otherwise have spent writing here on my own site. However, I plan to do a little recap of why I loved my recent Seattle visit so much (including a list of the best bars in town), and I'm also going to do a very short vermouth series. This could otherwise be one post, but I just don't have the time to do it all in one sitting, so I'm going to cut it up.

The inspiration for this is both my very recent purchase of Dolin French vermouth and Cocchi Americano (neither of which are available at all in Canada), and also a few separate discussions and debates I've had with bartenders about the definition of "vermouth." I actually work with a couple bartenders who call Lillet a vermouth, which it is not, so I figure a good and quick way to start is by clarifying some products categories.

To start it all off, vermouth belongs to a large family of drinks called "aperitifs" - alcoholic beverages consumed before a meal to whet the appetite. More specifically, vermouth belongs to the family of drinks called "aperitif wines," and for more clarification, "aromatized wines." These are wines that have been macerated/steeped/infused with botanicals of some sort to impart both flavour and colour. This includes vermouths, quinqiunas, americanos, barolo chinatos, and vino amari.

Fortification is also an important aspect of vermouth and many aperitifs and wines, and splits the family of aperitif wines and aromatized wines into further separate categories. To "fortify" a wine, a spirit - usually brandy - is added to the wine at some point during the production process. This not only increases the alcohol content, but in many cases will also cease the fermentation early, leading to higher sugar content in the product. Fortified but not aromatized wines include Sherry, Port, Madeira, and Pineau Des Charentes. Some wines are first fortified then aromatized, such as the aforementioned vermouth, americano, and quinquina. Typically they begin as a white wine or a mistelle, which is when a spirit is added to crushed grapes to produce alcohol rather than using fermentation, that are then either fortified and/or aromatized, and in the case of red aperitifs (such as sweet vermouth) are usually coloured with caramel.

To come back to my debate about Lillet, a further classification of fortified, aromatized wines is the herbs included in the aromatization process. Traditionally vermouth contained wormwood ("vermut" actually means wormwood in German), quinquina contained quinine (ex. Kina Lillet - the original Lillet), and americano contained gentian and wormwood. Over the last 150 years, these definitions and guidelines have blurred, particularly because there are no strict laws governing what can be labelled "vermouth," and so on (at least outside of Europe), so things have gotten quite confusing. Lillet contains no bittering agents, so therefore is not considered any of vermouth, americano, or quinquina by traditional standards, so how do we define it?
Well, it is a blend of Bordeaux wines that has been fortified with citrus liqueurs, but has it been aromatized?
The liqueurs have, so that's up for debate if this counts as actual aromatization.
Does it contain wormwood, gentian, or quinine?
No, no, and supposedly just a little bit. Kina Lillet, the original Lillet whose recipe has been recreated by Cocchi Americano, contained a fair amount of cinchona bark - a source of quinine - but modern Lillet has reduced this to almost nothing. This means that, if anything, Lillet is a quinquina, which is a type of fortified, aromatized wine, but the new recipe, which was redesigned in the 1980's, leaves it somewhat of its own category next to vermouth under fortified wines.

The true bottom lines are just taste and how to use the product in a cocktail, and while Lillet can be used in a vermouth style in a cocktail, it will dramatically change the balance, whereas using Dolin instead of Noilly Prat, or Vya instead of Cinzano will make the drink taste better, but won't disrupt the overall balance. Even using Cocchi Americano, which is fuller and more bitter, won't work the same as just using a dry vermouth, which should hopefully give you pause when trying to substitute one type of fortified wine (in this case quinquina) for another (vermouth).

I'd like to go through the general history of vermouth next time, list the types and their geographical homelands, and then do the same for americano and quinquina. It might also round everything out to briefly go through non-aromatized fortified wines (sherry, port, etc).

Be sure to check out this post on vermouth
and this one on quinquinas and americanos

Wednesday, 23 May 2012

The Sling

Mixing drinks is a very, very old practice, but it wasn't until the mid 19th century that these mixtures started to resemble what we call "cocktails" today. In fact, a "Cock Tail" was a kind of mixed drink at the time, containing just a spirit, water, sugar, and bitters (which today is called an "Old-Fashioned," referring to serving a cocktail the "old-fashioned way"). Going back further there are the Toddy, the Julep, the Sangaree, and the Sling, all of which were almost exactly the same thing, leading to some confusion down the line.
(I am of course avoiding Punches here, which are even older and range from just as simple to much more complicated. The Sour and the Fizz and the Collins, etc, are all descendents of Punch).

A "Cock Tail," in its original definition, was first referred to as a "Bittered Sling." Let's back up and look specifically at the Sling.

The definitive knowledge on these 19th century drinks is from the grandfather of bartending, Jerry Thomas. He wrote the first tome on bartending and mixed drinks in 1862, which included a collection of Punches as well as each of the above mentioned cock-tail precursors. The Toddy and The Sling (likely named after "slinging one back") are essentially separated only by temperature - a Toddy was usually served hot, and a Sling was usually served cold (though you could get a Cold Toddy and a Hot Sling, so again - confusion). In his first book he including a scrape or two of nutmeg over the Sling, while the Toddy was without, but in the second edition in 1887 removed this distinction. The Gin Sling, dating to about 1800, became a staple in American drinking, even commonly being consumed first thing in the morning. As always, alcoholic mixtures were considered medicinal, but it quickly surpassed this use and became wildly popular in every corner of the country. Adding further to its popularity was the increased availability of ice around the 1830's, making cold drinks more common, and drinking in general a little more accessible (room temperature drinks are definitely not as palatable).

Gin was the most popular of Slings, but you can of course use any spirit (Cognac and rye would have been common as well). At the time, Holland-style gin would have been the kind used, and not London Dry like we're used to today. It's hard to find, though David Wondrich offers a very simple suggestion to recreate it in his fantastic and inspiring book (from which I am getting much of the information in this post) - simply mix 60% Plymouth gin with 40% Irish Whiskey. (Irish Whiskey and Holland gin / genever are actually related and have taste similarities). He does also offer another suggestion in that spirits back than were typically higher proof, and thus a Sling required a little more water than nowadays. Decreases the 1oz to 0.5oz is a good idea if you're using an 80-proof.

Here is the recipe from Jerry Thomas' first edition for the original Sling:

2oz of spirits
1oz of water
1 teaspoonful of powdered white sugar (which equates to about 1/2oz of 1:1 simple syrup)
1 small lump of ice

Stir with a spoon.
[Grate some nutmeg over top]

In the 1862, Queen Victoria's Chef, Charles Elme Francatelli, published his own book including a very different Sling using juice and some liqueur, which by 1915 had spawned the Singapore Sling, using
Gin
Cheery Heering
Cointreau
Benedictine
Grenadine
Pineapple
Lemon
and Angostura bitters. 

Quite the change. Its popularity unfortunately brought the demise of the traditional Sling, and now if you order a Gin Sling you will typically receive the following:
Gin
Sweet vermouth
Lemon juice
Sugar
Angostura bitters
Soda

Just like most classic drinks, including the Cock Tail, variations and creativity were the death of tradition. Of course, without variation, we'd have nothing we do today - including even the Cock Tail itself, which as I mentioned is simply a Bittered Sling.