Showing posts with label applejack. Show all posts
Showing posts with label applejack. Show all posts

Tuesday, 22 January 2013

Five More Classic Cocktails for a Fancy Lady


Last post (found here) we went through some of the best classic cocktails for a lady, but the list to me feels incomplete without the following runner-ups.
 
Stinger
This drink is very simple and not particularly interesting in flavour - in fact, it can be way too sweet if made according to classic recipes. However, it is an excellent digestif to end your dinner or evening, and opens the door to some very interesting experimentation. Having a half-si
zed cocktail of Cognac or brandy with bitters, or amaro, and some representation of the mint flavour (be it Giffard menthe de pastille or Branca Menta or an amaro like Nardini) has become a mainstay of my drinking evenings. The drink also has a long American history, dating in literature back to 1917’s “Ideal Bartender” book, which lists it simply as equal parts of brandy and white crème de menthe. It was popular amongst pilots in WWI because the young men preferred drinks not to taste of alcohol, but also because the mint oil disguised the liquor on their breath (as cocktail historian David Wondrich reasons). The Stinger was a favourite of Billie Holiday, as well as enjoyed by the lovely Grace Kelly [right] in 1956’s “High Society,” Katherine Hepburn in 1940’s “Philadelphia Story,” and Jayne Mansfield and Cary Grant in 1957’s “Kiss Them For Me” (in which Grant says “stingers - and keep them coming.”) Giffard’s menthe de pastille can be substituted for crème de menthe (to better effect in my opinion), but is more potent and should be balanced accordingly. The below recipe is Wondrich’s:

2.25oz brandy

0.75oz white crème de methe

Shake well with cracked ice, then strain into a cocktail coupe.

Pink Lady
The name is a little obvious for a lady cocktail choice, the drink is pretty-looking, tastes fruity, but it still packs a punch. It also carries a foggy history. Originally the recipes only included gin, grenadine, and egg white (Cafe Royal Cocktail Book, 1937), but later incarnations included lemon juice, applejack or apple brandy, and even cream. Esquire’s 1949 “Handbook for Hosts” (mentioned last post) also has this one in the ‘for the girls’ section. In popular culture, 1950’s sex symbol Jayne Mansfield [right] used to drink them before meals, and in the 1937 film “Topper,” Constance Bennett gives one to Cary Grant.
The most accepted recipe comes from David Embury’s “Fine Art of Mixing Drinks” in 1948:

1.5oz gin
0.5oz apple brandy (or applejack)
0.5oz lemon juice

0.25oz grenadine
egg white

Shake ingredients without ice, then add ice and shake again. Strain into a cocktail coupe.

Twentieth Century
This is an excellent introduction to gin, or an excellent trick for anyone who claims they don’t like gin. It originated in 1937’s Cafe Royal Cocktail Book, credited to C.A. Tuck, a British bartender who created the drink in honour of the Twentieth Century Limited. At the time this was a wonder of modern technology: the world’s fastest and most luxurious train that ran from Chicago to New York at 60 miles per hour from 1902 to 1967. So fancy was this train and its many dining and drinking cars, that passengers boarded and exited the train upon a red velvet carpet, which is actually the origin of the phrase “red carpet treatment.” The train was featured in several films, most prominently in Alfred Hitchcock’s very influential “North by Northwest” (1959). The drink itself is like a chocolate meringue dessert, but can still be made dry enough to enjoy. Below is the traditional recipe, but click here to see a variation using egg white and substituting a Giffard white chocolate syrup for the very flat crème de cacao, along with a more detailed history.

1.5oz Plymouth gin
0.75oz Lillet Blanc

0.75oz white crème de cacao   
0.75oz lemon juice

Shake with ice and strain into a cocktail coupe.
 

Jack Rose
This pink and fruity sour has several theories of inception: named after a lying gambler who had a famous run-in with the law in 1912 (and who may have invented the drink himself), named after the Jaquemot rose because of the colour (as claimed in the book “Old Waldorf Bar Days” in 1931), or as recently uncovered in print in 1905, simply invented by a bartender at Gene Sullivan’s Cafe in Jersey City. Sadly the oldest printed account is the most likely one, negating the much more interesting Jack Rose the gambler story, which also lends the parallel of the drink itself being a liar, with its pink colour and fruity flavour masking what is actually a very strong drink. It is nonetheless a clever name, having both applejack and a rose colour. To be traditional, applejack should be used, but calvados is also acceptable and will offer a softer and fruitier drink. The juice is not specified between lemon or lime in the history books, but I find lime much more interesting. There are recipes galore on how to make this, and a major factor is how you make your grenadine. The simplest way is just to make a 1:1 simple syrup with real pomegranate juice in place of water, and this will enable you to balance drinks the usual way. Below is David Wondrich’s recipe:

2oz applejack (or Calvados)

1oz lime juice
0.5oz grenadine

Shake all ingredients with ice and strain into a cocktail coupe.

Aviation
A favourite among cocktail enthusiasts, the Aviation dates back to the 1910’s but underwent a recipe change in by 1930 when the Savoy Cocktail Book omitted one of its ingredients: cr
ème de violette. Throughout the next seventy-five years violette was for the most lost and forgotten as manufacture ceased, but thankfully in 2007 Rothman & Winter reproduced it and now we have several kinds available to us in North America. An Aviation without violette has none of the blueish colour for which it was likely named, and a much flatter-tasting drink altogether. Maraschino is somewhat of a challenge to the uninitiated, but with the balance of citrus and floral flavours makes this an excellent introduction. Below is Robert Hess’ adapted recipe. Click here to see a more in-depth history of the Aviation.

2oz gin

0.5oz lemon juice
0.5oz maraschino liqueur
0.24oz crème de violette

Shake all ingredients with ice and strain into a cocktail coupe. 

Thursday, 20 December 2012

Winter Cocktails: Teardrop Lounge in Portland

Portland will be making its first appearance on this site today! Having finally been able to visit for my first time this year, I was blown away by the amount of great food and drink available (and also by the number of strip clubs, but that's not really relevant). The cocktails were consistently great, as was the coffee, and of course the prices (no tax is as fun as you think). Taking a tour down Distillery Road and seeing the impressive number of great spirits being made in one city was also exciting. House Spirits Distillery stood out to me in particular, with Krogstad aquavit and Aviation gin, and their delicious and fresh-tasting coffee liqueur. The number of high quality bars in the city is exciting as well, with Clyde Common, Kask, Rum Club, Beaker & Flask, The Driftwood Room, and Teardrop Lounge - just to name a few. It is with great pleasure that I am able to share some holiday drink recipes from the most latter of these names, one of the best bars in the U.S., the Teardrop Lounge.

Teardrop has an amazing program with a focus on fresh and high-quality ingredients, adopting as they say the "Golden Rule of the kitchen: the finished product relies entirely upon the quality of source ingredients." Their
diverse menu has a nice collection of original drinks, obscure classics, and those made by friends in other renowned bars. Each of the three menus offer a punch for the table, an excellent and fun way to start your drinking evening.

Bartender and co-owner Daniel Shoemaker has graciously contributed a total of four holiday drinks along with recipes. I will separate these into two separate posts for easier absorption.

First up is the Long Time Coming, a pisco-based cocktail with three house-made ingredients: a cherry digestif, a port redux, and truffle bitters. Daniel shares his recipes for each of these ingredients below, and I hope you find them as creatively inspiring as I do!
Following that is the Humble Pie, a mix of blended Scotch and applejack with Christmas spice flavours like pimento, ginger, and peppercorn.

Long Time Coming
2 oz Campo de Encanto pisco
¾ oz Cherry Digestif*
½ oz Port Reduction*
8 drops Truffle bitters*

Stir with ice, strain into a chilled cocktail glass.  
No garnish.  

*Cherry Digestif
8 Quart cherry pits, topped with GNS, stored in cool place for 1 month, agitated daily.  Strain, add:
40 g dandelion root, toasted                                                
15 g gentian, toasted
40 g cedar chips, toasted                                    
8 g rhubarb root, toasted
40 g dong quoi                                                            
3 g horehound
15 g Cherry Bark                   
Steep all ingredients for an additional 24-36 hours.  
Strain, bottle.

*Port Redux
750ml Ruby port
1/4 oz cane sugar
6 cloves
2 star anise
15 green cardamom pods
1 Indonesian cinnamon sticks, crushed
Bring all ingredients to a light simmer, stirring occasionally until total liquid has reduced by 1/3.  
Allow to cool to room temperature, strain & bottle.

*Truffle Bitters
1 lb unsalted butter
½ oz Oregon black truffles
2 – 750 ml high-proof rye
½ cup toasted quassia
1/8 cup rose hips
1/8 cup sweet orange peel
1 tablespoon grains of paradise
1 tablespoon angelica
1 teaspoon fennel seed
1 teaspoon cumin seed
Clarify butter in heavy-bottomed saucepan at low heat for 1 hour.  Remove from heat, pour over thinly sliced truffles.  Let steep for 1 hour.  Strain through sieve into large, non-reactive container.  Pour rye in with butter, let steep airtight for 6 weeks. Freeze overnight to let separate. Strain off butter & all solids, returning rye to container. Add rose hips, orange peel, & qussia. Let steep for 10 days.  Add remaining spices & seasonings, let steep for 3 more days. Strain, add 1 tablespoon caramelized sugar syrup. Pour through funnel into oak barrel (treated with fine sherry for previous 6 weeks). Let age for 3 months. Strain, filter through brita filter & bottle.

Humble Pie
1 oz Laird's bonded applejack
1 oz Famous Grouse blended scotch
1/4 oz ginger syrup (2:1)
1 teaspoon rich demerara syrup (2:1)
4 dashes pimento dram
1 dash Angostura bitters
2 grinds black peppercorn
Candied ginger
Stir all ingredients with ice, strain over a large ice cube in a  rocks glass.  
Garnish with a piece of candied ginger on a small skewer. 


Stay tuned later tonight for two more holiday recipes from the Teardrop Lounge!


More Holiday Drinks!
[[ Teardrop Lounge Part 2 ]]

Friday, 26 October 2012

Classic Halloween Cocktails

We are seeing many modern cocktails this month, so it seems like a good time to take a quick break and see some classics. While there aren't any drinks specifically created for Halloween celebrations (or rather, any that survived the years in print), there are some with names that fit just fine with the holiday.

The most obvious of these are the "Corpse Revivers." This 'family' of cocktails dates back to the mid-late 1800's, and were designed to "revive the corpse" the morning after a night of heavy drinking. These cocktails bear little resemblance to each other aside from the name. It wasn't until Harry Craddock published his "Savoy Cocktail Book" in 1930 that any of these recipes showed up in print. The most popular is the "Corpse Reviver #2" (in my opinion the best of them), which you can read more about here in an old post.

Corpse Reviver #2
3/4oz gin
3/4oz lemon juice
3/4oz Lillet 
3/4oz Cointreau
Dash of absinthe

Combine all ingredients with ice, shake, and strain into a coupe.

Use Cocchi Americano instead of Lillet for better and more historically-accurate effect, as Lillet changed its recipe in the 1980's to a much sweeter version without the bitter flavour of quinine. It really makes a difference.
As for the absinthe, feel free to use pastis, Pernod, Herbsaint, or other suitable substitutions. The difference is not as noticeable as Cocchi/Lillet, but absinthe is also better and more accurate, so use it if you have it.

The other Corpse Revivers are much harder to come by. Searching in books or websites for #3 will bring you completely different ingredients, but I trust Robert Hess, who lists a recipe of equal parts brandy, Campari, and triple sec, with a 1/2 part of lemon juice. #1 is a more interesting drink, and one worth trying if you can get your hands on some applejack (which we can't in Canada):

Corpse Reviver #1
2oz brandy
1oz sweet vermouth
1oz applejack

Combine ingredients with ice, stir, and strain into a coupe.

"The Savoy Cocktail Book," one of the better historical drink books you will find, brings us another cocktail suitable for Halloween and different than the usual in that it contains orange juice: "Satan's Whiskers." There are two versions listed, the "Straight" using Grand Marnier, or the "Curled" using a different orange curacao (Cointreau or triple sec works just fine in this drink as well). It is similar to a Bronx cocktail, which is just gin, sweet and dry vermouth, and orange juice without the liqueur or bitters.

Satan's Whiskers
3/4oz gin
3/4oz sweet vermouth
3/4oz dry vermouth
1/2oz Grand Marnier (or other orange curacao)
1/2oz orange juice
Dash of orange bitters

Combine ingredients with ice, shake, and strain into a coupe.

Last up is the Zombie, a drink that has sparked many a debate over the years. The original was created in 1934 by Don the Beachcomber. Tiki drinks tend to contain a lot of ingredients, which fans the flames in the recipe debate. The modern go-to man for Tiki is Jeff "Beachbum" Berry, so I will list his recipe, and I will also list Martin Cate's from the best Tiki or rum bar I've ever been to - Smuggler's Cove in San Francisco. Martin's recipe is essentially the original. (For more ideas, Gary Regan, Dale Degroff, and Dr. Cocktail have all come up with recipes too).

Zombie (Jeff "Beachbum" Berry)
1oz lime juice
3/4oz pineapple juice
3/4oz papaya nectar
1/2oz applejack
1oz dark Jamaican rum (Myer's)
2oz Barbados rum (Mount Gay)
1oz light Puerto Rican rum (Brugal)
1/2oz 151 Demerara rum (Lemon Hart)

Shake everything with ice except the 151. Pour into a tall glass, fill with ice, and float the 151 on top. Garnish with a cocktail cherry, pineapple slice, and a sprig of mint if you desire. Sprinkle powdered sugar on top.

Zombie (Martin Cate)
6oz crushed ice
3/4oz lime juice
1/2oz grapefruit juice
1/4oz cinnamon syrup
1/2oz falernum
1.5oz Puerto Rican gold rum
1.5oz aged Jamaican rum
1oz Lemon Hart 151 Demerara rum
1 teaspoon grenadine
Dash Angostura bitters
6 drops of Pernod or Herbsaint

In a blender jar, add all ingredients and blend until slushy, about 2-3 seconds. Pour contents into a zombie or pint glass and add more crushed ice to fill. Garnish with a sprig of mint.


The Fall Series:
You can see the series introduction here
and more terrible Halloween cocktails here
"Death & Oranges" by Donnie Wheeler
"Jones' Bitter Aperitif" by Evelyn Chick 
"The Satchmo" by Simon Ogden 
"Dark City" by Jay Jones
"The Giant Huntsman" by Lauren Mote
"The Bay Harbour Butcher" by Shaun Layton  
"A Nightmare On Juniper Street" by Shea Hogan 


[[ Photography by
smallscreennetwork.com - Corpse Reviver #1
understandingcocktails.com - Satan's Whiskers
tastingtable.com - Martin Cate's Zombie ]]