Lost & Found: The Seelbach Cocktail

Every hotel, bar, or restaurant used to have a signature drink. In fact, for a few hundred years from the peak of punch through the heyday of plain and fancy drinks in the mid 19th century, all alcoholic beverages were named after either their ingredients or the establishment that created them. Some famous examples include the Manhattan, Brooklyn, Clover Club, Pegu Club, and Sazerac. One of the many sad consequences of U.S. Prohibition was that any business relying on selling alcohol had to be shut down, and often with it went an interesting history and a signature drink.

The Seelbach Hotel in Louisville, Kentucky, is a great example. Built in 1905 by the Seelbach brothers, this hotel was an attempt to recreate the beauty and decadence of western Europe. Located within was The Rathskeller, a 400-seat capacity nightspot whose menu claimed that “every essential, artistic detail is a reproduction of the underground drinking and council hall of one of the famous castles on the Rhine.” Most impressively, this was one of the very first air-conditioned rooms ever built, requiring forty tons of steam-produced refrigeration every twenty-four hours to maintain at least a ten degree cooler temperature than the hot Kentucky air outside.

Theatre-goers and socialites spent evenings here, likely enjoying the signature cocktail, The Seelbach – a light, spicy mixture of bourbon, Cointreau, Champagne, and a hefty dose of both Angostura and Peychaud’s bitters. Though unconfirmed (as most of these stories are), the tale of its inception involves a bartender opening a foaming bottle of Champagne and grabbing a nearby customer’s Manhattan to catch the spill. This patron enjoyed the combination and a new drink was born.

Most famously, the Seelbach Hotel was frequented by F. Scott Fitzgerald, who at the time was writing “The Great Gatsby,” and supposedly based some of the novel on his experience there. The female lead, Daisy Buchanan, was from Louisville, so perhaps he found inspiration in a particular guest? Perhaps for Gatsby as well?

Once the 18th Amendment was passed, the bars inside were closed and The Rathskeller became simply an extended dining room. Part of this space was even leased to Walgreen Drugs. The Seelbach Cocktail, now illegal, was forgotten.

In the 1930’s a new bar was opened that offered its own theatre and musical entertainment, and though many ownership and design changes have occurred over the last eighty years, the Seelbach still stands and parts of the original Rathskeller designs still remain. The story goes that in 1995 when ownership was undergoing another renovation of the hotel, a manager discovered (I like to think it was physically found in the basement) a recipe for the Seelbach Cocktail and again made it the house drink, though the specifics were guarded. Thanks to Gary Regan, who convinced the Seelbach Hotel to allow the recipe to be published in his “New Classic Cocktails” book, we can all share in the drink’s history and unique flavour.

At Pourhouse, we’ve altered the recipe slightly to suit our tastes, so come try our version and tip your glass to Fitzgerald, Gatsby, forgotten cocktails, and air conditioning.

[originally published on pourhousevancouver.com/blog]

New Year's Eve Cocktails

What better night to enjoy some Champagne or sparkling wine than New Year's? Should you be in a cocktail mood, here are some delicious drinks containing sparkling wine perfect for celebrating the arrival of 2013. We'll start with some classics and move on to more contemporary sippers.

The best choice of sparkling wine for mixing is always dry. In fact, the best wine for any use is almost always dry. Also, be aware of the acidity you're adding to the drink when you top with sparkling wine. The carbonic acid will affect the sweetness of your drink, despite the sugar content in the wine itself, which is one of the reasons to choose something dry. When mixing your other ingredients, balance things on the sweeter side, and likewise don't be surprised if you find your drink too sweet before topping with the wine as it will be dried out. French 75's, for example, should be a little sweet before you top them.

A great choice for any use is cava, as these tend to be great quality for how much you pay. Prosecco is great for the same reason, and they also tend to be dry so are excellent choices. Should you choose a North American sparkling wine or a Champagne, look for a "Brut" or "extra Brut", which means the wine is dry (i.e. not sweet). "Sec" refers to high levels of sugar, which is something you want to avoid if mixing (and in my opinion, something you should avoid altogether).

The Champagne Cocktail
1 raw sugar cube
Several dashes of Angostura or other aromatic bitters
Top with Champagne or sparkling wine

Drop the sugar cube into a Champagne flute and soak with the bitters. Top with sparkling wine. 
Garnish with a lemon twist.

This drink dates back to the 1850's and is the first recorded variation on the "cock-tail," a combination of spirit, sugar, water, and bitters. Later variations included the addition of Cognac or brandy, which is in my opinion an excellent choice and I suggest going with 1/2oz. Should you have no sugar cubes on-hand, the original recipes call for 1/2 teaspoon of sugar, or 1 teaspoon of 1:1 simple syrup. Twist as always means just the peel of the lemon with the pith cut off, which you squeeze over the top of the drink to extract the oil.

French 75
1oz gin
1/2oz lemon juice
1 teaspoon of sugar
Sparkling wine

Shake ingredients with ice and strain into a cocktail coupe or Champagne flute. Top with sparkling wine.

This drink originated at Harry's New York Bar in Paris in 1915, created by American bar owner Harry MacElhone. The drink was said to "pack a punch like the French 75mm field gun," hence the name. The above recipe is from Harry Craddock's seminal cocktail tome, "The Savoy Cocktail Book," though more modern recipes contain up to 2oz of gin (which I must be honest I prefer). In David Embury's equally as influential cocktail book, "The Art of Mixing Drinks," the recipe claims that Cognac is the true spirit of choice here, lest the drink not be called the "French" 75. However, considering that earlier recipes call for gin and that earlier accounts claim the name comes from the French rifle and not from the spirit, the general consensus is that the drink be made with gin, which in my opinion makes a better drink anyway. Dropping a real cherry into the bottom of the glass adds a nice touch.

Buck and Breck
1.5oz Cognac or brandy
Dash of absinthe
2 dashes Angostura or other aromatic bitters
Sparkling wine

Rinse a small glass or Champagne flute with water. Fill the glass with powdered sugar and throw it out, leaving the glass frosted inside. Pour in the brandy, bitters, and absinthe, then top the glass with cold sparkling wine.

This drink is supposedly created by the grandfather of the cocktail, Jerry Thomas, in the mid 1800's. It is not only a fancy-looking drink, but a more obscure one and very tasty. Should you be without absinthe, absente, pastis, Herbsaint, or pernod will suffice, but be aware of their shortcomings in flavour and complexity in comparison to actual absinthe.

Seelbach Cocktail
1oz bourbon
1/2oz Cointreau
7 dashes Angostura bitters
7 dashes Peychaud's bitters
Sparkling wine

Stir bourbon, Cointreau, and bitters with ice. Strain into a cocktail coupe or Champagne flute and top with sparkling wine. Garnish with a lemon twist.

This was a favourite of mine for a time, and one that I brought to Pourhouse in Vancouver where we included it on our fall menu this year. It comes from the Seelbach Hotel in Louisville, Kentucky, in 1917. During Prohibition, the cocktail was lost until the mid-1990's when it was found in the basement of the hotel during renovations. The infamous Gary Regan convinced the hotel management to share their recipe for this spicy drink and now it is available for us all to enjoy. Should you be using other bitters, be aware of their bitterness and adjust accordingly. Bitter Truth Creole Bitters, for example, is more complex and interesting than Peychaud's, but are much more bitters and only require 2-3 dashes.

Death In The Afternoon
1.5oz absinthe
Sparkling wine

Pour absinthe into a Champagne flute and top with sparkling wine (at least 4oz). 

This one was invented by Hernest Hemingway, who was by all accounts a heavy and creative drinker. It was named after his novel published in 1932. This was not the only drink he created, another one of note being the Hemingway Daquiri or Papa Doble, with rum, grapefruit, lime, and maraschino liqueur, which is by all means worth making in the summer. 

Moving on to more modern cocktails, here is a French 75 variation by Dale Degroff using bourbon instead of gin.

French 95
1oz fresh orange juice
3/4oz bourbon
3/4oz simple syrup
1/2oz fresh lemon juice
Sparkling wine. 

Shake the first four ingredients with ice and strain over rocks into a fizz glass. Top with sparkling wine. 

And here are three great original sparkling wine cocktails contributed to this site for previous series.

Jones' Bitter Aperitif (Evelyn Chick, Blue Water Cafe, Vancouver)
1/2oz Amaro Averna

1/4oz Cynar
1/4oz Taylor 10 Tawny Port
Barspoon All-Spice Syrup
Sparkling wine

Stir all ingredients with ice, strain into champagne flute & top with dry cava

All-Spice Syrup:
Boil a tablespoon of crushed allspice berries, one stick of cinnamon, and three cloves in one litre of water. Simmer for 15 minutes on low, then add two litres of sugar. Stir until dissolved, then let cool before bottling. 

The Shibuya Crusta (Shaun Layton, L'Abattoir, Vancouver)

20 ml Hennessy VS Cognac

15 ml Maraschino

30 ml fresh lemon juice

10 ml orgeat syrup

7 dashes Angostura bitters

Cava

Add all ingredients to a shaker tin minus the Cava. Shake, fine strain into sugar decked flute. Top with Cava. Garnish with a long orange peel around the inside of the flute. 

 

And a personal favourite of mine that we still serve by request at Pourhouse, The Bittercup. Two bitter amari along with fresh juices and sparkling wine combine to create a very complex cocktail tasting like bitter strawberry.

 

The Bittercup
1 oz  Campari
1/2oz Fernet Branca
1/2oz real cranberry juice (not cranberry cocktail)
3/4oz fresh grapefruit juice
1/4oz simple syrup
2 oz dry prosecco

Pour all ingredients except prosecco into a shaker. Shake. Taste and balance bitterness with simple syrup (the taste of bitter strawberries is the goal). Double strain into a cocktail glass. Finish with prosecco. 

 

Happy New Year's!

Winter Cocktails: French 75 in New Orleans

It is with great appreciation and honour that I present a whopping total of four Christmas cocktails from the historic New Orleans bar, the French 75. The bar itself was built in the late 1800's, but was renovated in the 1970's, and reinvented in 2003 with an emphasis on premium spirits and cigars, and of course the new renaissance in cocktails. This award-winning bar is the first in New Orleans to grace this site, and they have graciously contributed a handful of recipes.

"The Winter Waltz," a rye, amaro, and Christmas spice mix, is named after head bartender Chris Hannah's favourite Frank Sinatra Christmas Carol. "The Contessa" is a nod to the character in Tennesse Williams' novel, "The Roman Spring of Mrs. Stone." Contessa was the swindler in the book who introduced the Negroni to the characters in tho novel.

Winter Waltz
2 oz Rye Whiskey
1/2 oz Averna Amaro
1/4 oz St. Elizabeth's Allspice dram
2 dashes Angostura bitters
 
Shake with ice, strain into cocktail glass, garnish with star anise.

Dicken's Toddy
2 oz Wild Turkey bourbon
1/2 oz Maple Syrup
3 dashes Angostura Bitters
 
Build like and Old-Fashioned in a rocks glass with ice, garnish with an orange peel and a cherry.

Contessa
3/4 oz London Dry Gin or Plymouth Gin
3/4 oz Aperol
3/4 oz Ruby Red Grapefruit juice
1/2 oz Cranberry Cordial
2 dashes Orange Bitters

Shake with ice, strain into chilled cocktail glass, garnish with an orange peel.

(We make the Cranberry cordial similar to making Cranberry Sauce)

A fairly simple alternative to making a cordial is making an infused simple syrup. By adding equal parts water to sugar (usually 1 cup) and adding fresh cranberries to the mix once the sugar dissolves over low heat, you can make a cranberry syrup to use in this and other similar Christmas cocktails).  

Charante Hessian
1 1/2 oz Cognac
1 1/2 oz Pumpkin Butter
1/4 oz St. Elizabeth's Allspice dram
4 oz boiling hot water
 
Build in a tempered glass or mug, stir and garnish with grated cinnamon and nutmeg.

Pumpkin butter is a compound butter with added pumpkin puree.

Cheers to the French 75 team and their amazing bar in such a historically exciting city.
Merry Christmas everyone!

Winter Cocktails: Teardrop Lounge in Portland Part 2

Daniel Shoemaker at the Teardrop Lounge in Portland is kindly sharing two more winter cocktails with us. "Boogie Street" is a rare combination of bourbon and cachaça with the added flavours of fruit and chocolate. Daniel is also sharing Teardrop's house-made crèmede cacao recipe should you feel adventurous enough to make your own. After that is "Moon on the Rain," a cider-like cocktail using a house-made gastrique, for which there are again instructions for the adventurous.

Thank you again to Daniel and the Teardrop team for running such a great establishment and for contributing their holiday recipes. Cheers!

Boogie Street

1 ½ oz. Maker’s 46 bourbon

¾ oz. Novo Fogo silver cachaça

¾ oz. blood orange juice

½ oz. crème de cacao*

Barspoon pear butter

Shake, double-strain over fresh ice in a rocks glass. 
Garnish with a fan of Bosc pear slices.  

*Crème de Cacao:

3 ½ cups Theo Cacao nibs

1 cup Cane Sugar

1 cup Distilled Water

4-750 ml Lemonhart 151 rum

Dissolve sugar in water at slow simmer.  Add cacao nibs & stir constantly.  Sugar will re-granulate, smoking, until it begins to slowly caramelize & coat the cacao nibs. The entire process should take no more than 20 minutes. Remove from heat, lay out cacao nibs on parchment sheet. Let cool, then break up with spoon into container, topping off with rum. Let steep for 1 week, strain through cheesecloth. Cut to proof with equal parts distilled water.

Moon on the Rain

2 oz. Daron Calvados

¾ oz. Quince-Pecan Gastrique*

¾ oz. Dubonnet Rouge

2 dashes Fee’s Whiskey-Barrel bitters

Stir, strain into a chilled cocktail glass, garnish with an orange zest.  

*Quince-Pecan Gastrique:

6 cups cane sugar

3 cups balsamic vinegar

1 cups brandy

3 cups Quince, coarsely chopped

1 cups pecans

Caramelize sugar on medium, then slowly add vinegar, stirring to incorporate. Add quince & brandy, simmer for 10 minutes. Add pecans, simmer for another 10 minutes. Steep for 2 hours, strain & bottle.

(NOTE: this is good with American Dubonnet, but AWESOME with Canadian)

More Holiday Drinks!
[[ Teardrop Lounge Part 1 ]]

[["Yukon Cornelius" from Veneto in Victoria ]]
[[ "The Rockefeller" from Veneto in Victoria ]]
[[ The Hot Toddy ]]
[[ Winter drinks from Smuggler's Cove in San Francisco ]]
[[ "Bear Skin" from The Refinery in Vancouver ]]
[[ "Cold & Delicious" from The Violet Hour in Chicago ]]
[[ The history of Eggnog ]]
[[ "Gold," "Frankincense," and "Myrrh" from Trevor Kallies in Vancouver ]]
[[ "Old Saint Juan" from Shea Hogan in Vancouver ]]
[[ "Hot Buttered Rhum Cider" from Slanted Door in San Francisco ]]
[[ The history of mulled wine ]]
[[ The history of The Flip ]]
[[ Hot Buttered Rum ]]

Modern Mondays: "Chartreuse & The Chocolate Factory"

I'm always encountering new cocktail ideas, recipes, and techniques. I hope to catalogue as much as possible on this site to encourage a sense of community and in hopes that every professional and home bartender will inspire every other so we all continue to create and share. A little alliteration helps in these situations, so "Modern Mondays" seemed fitting enough for sharing new ideas. I have no intention of doing this every Monday, but a couple a month is definitely a start. Let's get to it.

We're currently in the fall limbo between Halloween and Christmas (up here anyway, I guess all you southerners still have your Thanksgiving to come), and I'm lucky to have been sent a few fall cocktails to share before I get into my upcoming Christmas series in December. These didn't make it into my series last month, but are too delicious to pass up.

The infamous and renowned David Wolowidnyk from West on South Granville in Vancouver is sharing his herbal and chocolatey sipper aptly titled "Chartreuse & The Chocolate Factory." His story behind this is simple:
"Picture the night security guard at the chocolate factory falling asleep drunk while drinking Chartreuse and eating walnuts and somehow burning the place to the ground."

Sad but delicious - my kind of drink.

Chartreuse & The Chocolate Factory

2oz Maker's Mark Bourbon infused with Cocoa Nibs
1/2oz Green Chartreuese
1/2 oz Cynar
Dash Fee's Black Walnut Bitters

Stir ingredients with ice. Strain over new ice.
Mist surface with Ardbeg 10 Year-Old Single Malt Scotch.

Halloween Cocktails: "Dark City" by Jay Jones

As we get closer to Halloween, our cocktails will begin to get darker, scarier, and bloodier. Today's contributor is Mr. Jay Jones from Market by Jean-Georges at the Shangri-La Hotel in Vancouver. The drink is in his simple but powerful style, yielding a very dark, almost black cocktail intended to end your evening. Jay introduces it himself:

"Newfound fondness for Knob Creek 9 year old 'Single Barrel Reserve' Bourbon (not to be confused with its more commonly known 9 year old 'small batch' brother) led me to spend some quality time considering its cocktail possibilities. [It's] a truly spectacularly bold whiskey of richness and fortitude - the 60% abv beast requires colleagues with equally substantial attributes. Although the taste profile is somewhat of a punch in the mouth, it is not without smoothness and balance. It simply asserts itself rather firmly. Fernet Branca seemed to be up to the pairing task - continuing the dark depths of the bourbon's tobacco, tar and spice characteristics. The essential amaro's inimitable traits are obvious in the final Cocktail, yet still serve as supporting cast to the bourbon's dominant and defining role. The structure becomes more complex and mingles concentrated herb tastes into a lengthy finish. Giffard continues as my liqueur brand of choice. Their Muroise du Val de Loire is a seductive and ripe foil to the angry assets of bourbon and amaro. (Muroise is a hybrid berry, forged with blackberry and raspberry). While its sweetness and natural flavours tone down the other two brutes, its beautiful deep blue/purple hue adjusts the previously dark amber blend into a unique colour which seems black but yields indigo when the light catches it right. Orange zest softens the drinkers first approach by the suggestion of refreshing citrus - a subtle touch with large impact on the whole personality of the complete cocktail.
The name, 'Dark City,' refers to the 1998 neo-noir sci-fi film of same name, but also makes a general emotional suggestion of the tone of the drink, suited to the end of a dim, cold night in downtown Vancouver.

It's aggressive, dark and virile. A closer - intended to finish you off."

Dark City

1.5 oz Knob Creek 9 year old Single Barrel Reserve Kentucky Straight Bourbon

0.5oz Fernet Branca

0.5oz Giffard Muroise du Val de Loire

Zest of Orange Peel

Method:

1. combine all liquid ingredients in a stirring vessel

2. load to just above liquid height with large ice cubes - scatter with cracked ice cubes

3. stir consistently at a medium pace for 20 rotations

4. fine strain contents into a room temperature rocks glass

5. fill to glass height with large ice cubes

6. zest drink's surface with fresh orange peel - discard spent peel

You can check out Jay's previous contributions to this site here:

"The Four Horsemen" for Amaro April

"The Jaguar" for the Bittered Sling Extracts Series

Stay tuned for more holiday drinks...

The Fall Series:

You can see the series introduction here
and more terrible Halloween cocktails here
"Death & Oranges" by Donnie Wheeler
"Jones' Bitter Aperitif" by Evelyn Chick 
"The Satchmo" by Simon Ogden 
Classic Halloween Cocktails
"The Giant Huntsman" by Lauren Mote
"The Bay Harbour Butcher" by Shaun Layton  
"A Nightmare On Juniper Street" by Shea Hogan 

[[ Photo by Jay Jones ]]

Aperol & St. Germain

Since hitting the North American market in 2006 and 2007 respectively, Aperol and St-Germain liqueurs have become staples on many a cocktail menu. It's no secret that the latter is ridiculously tasty and is considered by some to be almost cheating because of its ability to make just about anything delicious. Made from elderflowers gathered in France by hand during only a handful of weeks, and transported by bicycle before being gently macerated, the liqueur is not overly sweet for a liqueur. It offers aromas of flowers, peach, pear, grapefruit, and lychee, and flavours just as wonderful. Perhaps the reason bartenders get so excited about it, however, is its acidity, which balances extremely well in a cocktail and even in small doses can round out a drink without ever being overpowering. Aperol, the mildest of Italian amari, originated in 1919 with the intention of being a lighter version of Campari and as such offers lower alcohol content, a sweeter profile, and much less bitterness. It is also much less complex, and has strong rhubarb and orange flavours. It will be bitter for some, but most experienced drinkers will find it quite mild. Modern bartenders have furthered its reputation of being "Campari's younger brother" by swapping the liqueurs in classic drinks such as the Negroni and Boulevardier, or at least mixing the two so as to make these drinks more palatable to the uninitiated.
It is usually fair to assume that putting two awesome things together will create further awesome drinks, and in this particular case this logic yields amazing results. However, it doesn't seem to happen as often as one would expect. There are a ton of options, particularly with gin, and it is worth experimenting. With the hot weather finally arriving in the Pacific Northwest, here is a small collection of some summer afternoon refreshers to evening sippers employing the skills of both of these liqueurs and the magic they create together.

Apparent Sour
(Bobby Heugel, Anvil Bar & Refuge, Houston)

• 1.5 oz Aperol
• 0.75 oz St-Germain
• 0.75 oz lime juice

Shake with ice and strain into a cocktail glass. Garnish with a sprig of rosemary.

These taste amazing and are perfect not only for summer, but also for anyone looking for something low-proof. A perfect and simple example of the great flavour you get from mixing the two liqueurs. Try switching the lime for lemon and throwing in a dash of your favourite bitters.

 
 Primrose
(Jay Jones, Shangri-La Hotel, Vancouver)

• 1.5 oz London Dry Gin
• 1 oz Aperol
• 0.75 oz St-Germain
• 0.5 oz lemon juice
• 2 dashes peach bitters

Stir with ice and fine strain into a cocktail glass.
There are a lot of options in sour-territory.

This is a great starting point to play around with the bitters, citrus, or spirit choice. Tone down the Aperol and top with sparkling wine for a lighter drink even better suited for hot weather.



Rye Invention
(Kathy Casey, Small Screen Network)

• 1.5 oz Straight Rye Whiskey
• 0.75 oz St-Germain
• 0.75 oz Aperol

Stir with ice, strain into a cocktail glass, garnish with a flamed orange peel and a cherry.

This one is surprisingly light in flavour and mouth-feel for a whiskey-based cocktail and the rye brings some much welcomed spice to the mix. Using a different spirit with a dry profile might work well here too (such as a slightly high-proof rum, an unaged Tequila, or be very adventurous and use aquavit or a Scotch).

Welcome To The Dark Side
(Colin Turner, Cin Cin, Vancouver)

• 1.5 oz Bourbon
• 1 oz Amaro Averna
• 0.25 oz St-Germain
• 0.25 oz Aperol
• Orange Peel

Lightly muddle the orange peel in the mixing glass, then add ingredients with ice and stir. Strain into a cocktail glass and garnish with a fresh orange peel, squeezing the oils over the top of the glass.

A much darker, heavier drink than the rest so far. The liqueurs offer a lot of complexity and bitterness, but the sugar from each balance everything very nicely. Despite having a whiskey base and using a full ounce of Averna, the flavour offers a lot of fruit along with chocolate and vanilla. Using a dry bourbon is your best bet here to really round things out (Colin prefers Maker's 46).

Article by Rhett Williams; originally published on www.shakestir.com

[[ Photography:
Wall Street Journal (Apparent Sour)
Taste Magazine (Primrose)
Small Screen Network (Rye Invention)
Rhett Williams (Welcome to the Dark Side) ]]

The Butchertown Cocktail

The words “craft cocktail” make most Vancouverites think of one particular area – Gastown. While there are obvious exceptions, and some great ones at that, the concentration of stellar bar programs here is staggering. Cocktail culture in Vancouver has been growing so dramatically over the last few years that most of the top establishments are no more than three years old. One of the most notable has to be L’Abattoir.

Located in Gastown’s iconic Blood Alley, a drink’s throw from Gassy Jack, the award-winning French-influenced restaurant and impressive wine list is reason enough to visit. Add in their solid, simple, and classic cocktail program courtesy of Head Barman, Shaun Layton, and you have reason enough to visit regularly. Though the name (slaughterhouse) refers to one of several unconfirmed legends of Blood Alley’s past (the others include it being an execution site and Vancouver’s first prison) and the refurbished, century-old brick walls alongside tile and hanging antlers give the impression of both formality and Tobe Hooper, L’Abattoir is in fact quite casual and friendly. They were even named “Best Casual Restaurant” at this year’s Vancouver Magazine Awards.

Casual accolades aside, the food and cocktails are as sophisticated as you could want, and Layton has found a comfortable niche for his bar that marries classic style with subtle, modern sensibilities. The “Classic Cocktails” menu is a collection that includes some sadly forgotten ones, and a look through the “Originals” reveals a strong, balanced selection that often extends on the classic ideals. The “Slaughterhouse”, for example, is a Sazerac variation, decorating Cognac with Elixir Vegetal, aromatic bitters, and some orange oil and Green Chartreuse mist. The “Clover Club Refashioned” is simply the original refreshing Clover Club with added mint and sweet vermouth.

There are lighter sippers for the less initiated, combining modern juices and liqueurs (try the “Gastown Swizzle” on a hot day), and even a beer cocktail using a chili-infused Tequila, but talking with Layton or his right-hand-man David Greig reveals they are much more interested in a well-balanced spirit-focussed cocktail. This is further evident by eyeing the tilted backbar shelves, covered in rare gins and whiskies plus a collection of unique products that are hard to get here in Canada.

It has been a good five years since craft cocktails and mixology have become commonplace in Vancouver. There are upwards of fifteen high-quality cocktail bars in downtown alone, and Layton places the city alongside the best in the States. “A lot of bartenders have gotten over themselves and are just worrying about good drinks and pleasing customers. Our culture is really growing up – I haven’t made a Mojito or touched the vodka in over a year. This year I’ve been all over the U.S., and in terms of the volume of bars and the quality of spirits, there’s not much setting them apart from us anymore. Our crowd is not quite as knowledgeable, but it’s getting there.”

With Vancouver;s status as a craft-cocktail city, there are factors outside the mixing glass Layton feels puts us above the rest, namely the quality of customer service. “Our hospitality is fantastic – that definitely sets us apart. Also our ability to deal with not being able to get so many great products, and the fact that most of our best bars have high quality food, whereas a lot of bars in the States just focus on drinks. In Vancouver, we can’t do that.”

With the maturation of the scene in general, Layton feels there are positive shifts in the mentality of not just the bartender, but also the customer. “It’s becoming less about mixologist and more about having a good clientele. It’s more or less just spending time concentrating on your guests, more about quality spirits, and the homemade thing is going away. A really good drink is something you’re going to have again and again, not something you’ll have once just to say you’ve had it. It’s the same with the food industry – it’s gotten away from being too high-dining focused because you don’t want people to only come to your restaurant once every six months. If you become too novelty in your bar, and you find you go there just for the experience, and you feel frowned upon for having a beer instead of a cocktail, you’re not going to go very often.”

Layton has chosen his “Butchertown” cocktail to share, which is probably the most interesting on his menu. Named after an actual town in Kentucky, Layton designed the drink around two of the state’s major exports – bourbon and tobacco. Dry vermouth gives a different balance to each of the ingredients, allowing the bitterness of the Cynar and Becherovka to be more present, and just a touch of rum to hold things in place. It’s a quite dry and complex cocktail, and definitely a must-try for any enthusiast.
By Rhett Williams

The Butchertown

45 ml Wild Turkey 101 Bourbon
25 ml Noilly Prat French Vermouth
10 ml Becherovka
10 ml Amaro Cynar
1 barspoon Banks Rum
4 drops Tobacco Bitters

Combine all ingredients with ice, stir, strain into a cocktail coupe. Garnish with a lemon twist.


Originally published on www.eatmagazine.ca by Rhett Williams

Photography by Rhett Williams: The Butchertown Cocktail by Shaun Layton at L'Abattoir, Vancouver, 2012 

Veneto Unveils Their New Menu!

This weekend Veneto Tapa Lounge in Victoria, B.C., will be busting out a new cocktail and wine menu featuring some really awesome-looking originals, one or two old favourites, and even some new flights. According to Simon, the new menu is "quite reflective of what we do at Veneto; playful and fun with a backbone of classicist bartending technique."

I found the "flight" idea very exciting when I was there. At the time they had an "evolution of..." flight you could try, for example, the evolution of "The Brandy Cocktail," from its oldest incarnation to the most modern. This time around, they've gotten even more creative, doing "The Hemingway Trio," with the Death In The Afternoon, Papa Doble, and Death In The Gulfstream. There's also a Wondrich-inspired Manhattan flight, and one I think is simple but particularly clever, "The Sour Trio," going from bourbon in the south, to Tequila in Mexico, to pisco in South America.

Still remaining are Veneto classics like Rosemary's Baby and Wax Poetic, but for the most part the menu is totally new.

I'm excited to try every single one, but I should try to narrow myself to mentioning just a few I suppose. Oh screw that, I'm going to talk about the ones I want to try. Here are the first ones the popped out to me:

From Katie McDonald comes a few lighter drinks like "The Fluffer," with gin, Aperol, Orancio, and orange flower water, and "Jenkins!," with gin, honey, lychee, lemon, rose water, and a rosebud garnish, but she balances out her selection with "The Stranger," using Maker's 46 and sarsaparilla bitters complete with a Big Lebowski quote.

A few from Josh Boudreau really have me salivating, like "The Red Dress," which combines grappa, Campari, orange, and violette ("perfect for a night of playful conversation and intimate confessions"), and throws a little fire in the mix with "The Chestnut Cabinet" via flames Angostura and rum, chestnut, French vermouth, coffee bitters, and Jamaican rum.

Then there's the man himself, Simon Ogden, with a handful of new concoctions. The most noteworthy for me is one he created for Jay Jones of Market in the Shangri-La Hotel in Vancouver - "Passionate modern bartending on the West Coast has its pioneers. Vancouver's Jay Jones is one of the greatest. This is for him, with gratitude." Simon has graciously sent me the recipe, which uses the deliciously spicy Bittermens Tiki bitters in honour of Jay's island heritage, a recipe I will share below. Simon also a diverse mix inluding "Satchmo" (Mr. Louis Armstrong), which blends Highland and Islay whiskies with cinnamon apple bitters, honey, and lemon, the refreshing "Gin Micki" using gin, cucumber, pear, and celery bitters, and "Jasper Newton," (an ode to Jack Daniel's) with JD, fig compote, barrel-aged bitters, a red wine float, and a fig newton "on the side for good measure."

Lastly, there are a few new sparkling options, two of which I must try as well -
"Kentucky Waterfall" from Josh, with bourbon, peach, Campari, and prosecco,
and "A Modest Proposal," from Katie, with juiced celery, pistachio, cachaça, and prosecco.

Thirsty yet? Today is another day I'm sad I almost never make it over to Victoria. The new menu is probably reason enough.

So, the Barjonesing (which is both the name of Jay's twitter and consulting company). Simon has called Cynar his "all time, number one fave" amaro. "Beautiful, syrupy, and just the right amount of bitter" (you can see more info in my Amaro April series introduction). All these ingredients are readily available in B.C., thankfully (head to Legacy), and the Bittermens can be picked up at Gourmet Warehouse for just $17 per bottle (and they're all worth it). Simon tells me "Elemakule" means "old man" in Hawaiian. You learn something new every day.

I tip my hat and glass to Simon and the Veneto team, and to Jay as well. Now, get to Veneto and try some new drinks!

Barjonesing

2 oz. Woodford Reserve Bourbon
1/2 oz Amaro Cynar
1/2 oz Giffard Abricot de Rousillan
3 dashes Bittermens Elemakule Tiki Bitters

Lightly and briefly stir all ingredients together in ice just to cool them, then strain over large ice in an Old Fashioned Glass.
Garnish with a flamed Orange zest.

If you are unfamiliar with Veneto, please
check out my review here
check out The Pandemonium cocktail here
check out The Cherry Bob-omb cocktail here

Amaro April: "Welcome To The Dark Side" from Cin Cin

Heading north once again to beautiful Vancouver takes us to the heart of downtown, peering over the street lights and night-shoppers of Robson street. Multiple award-winning contemporary Italian restaurant, Cin Cin, has been a big name in the Vancouver food scene for some time, but like Blue Water Cafe, I sometimes wonder if people realize how amazing the bar program is as well. Ignore the misleading "fresh juice martini's" offer on the website and look at the actual bar menu that offers several excellent classics, and some solid and simple originals. Bourbon is a common theme here, and continue scanning down (or continue flipping through, next time you're there) the menu and you'll find pages and pages of grappa. You'll even find it in some of the cocktails, including their signature, the Negroni Cin Cin, featuring Beniamino moscato grappa, Punt e Mes, Aperol, and a few drops of orange bitters, served on the rocks with orange peel. In fact, Cin Cin is awaiting one more shipment that should give it the largest selection of grappa in North America (at the moment, I've been told only one restaurant in San Francisco is ahead).
The man behind this program is one of the true veterans of the Vancouver bar scene, CPBA director, Colin Turner. Bringing experience from over twenty years of being behind the bar in some capacity, Colin is an expert of the craft - and I mean bartending, not just mixology. He creates cocktails that suit your palate while being engaging, entertaining, and informative, making Cin Cin another top choice for a great drinking experience. He will also create something to pair nicely with your meal, believing that cocktails, particularly those of the bourbon persuasion, can work excellently alongside food - a view I very rarely encounter. Should you feel so inclined, the wine list is also award-winning, as is the dessert menu, so there is many a reason to make the trip.

Requesting to meet Colin to discuss Amaro April brought me not only a ton of information, but also some great drinks. I went through some originals he'd been tinkering with, including one with Bols genever, Amaro Ramazzotti, St. Germain, Bitter Truth Jerry Thomas' Own Decanter Bitters, and orange peel, and another that I loved with Rittenhouse Bonded 100, Amaro Nardini, maraschino, and Bitter Truth aromatic bitters. Ultimately for his amaro post, I had to go with one currently on the menu, and one that will soon actually be tied around the neck of any bottle of Averna you buy from the BCLS (whenever they get around to bringing some in!) - "Welcome To The Dark Side."
When Colin tried a Black Manhattan, he found it to be terrible (though I argue he had a poorly-made one, because it can be a good drink), but found something in the mix that was worth tweaking. Using, as he puts it, the "full sweetness of Aperol" to pull the Averna and bourbon together, he balanced with just a little of St. Germain, which unlike most other liqueurs, has an "acidity that really cuts through." Adding just one other factor in the muddled orange peel to bring the oils to the full taste of the cocktail and not just the nose, it needed only a name, one he chose in honour of both a bumper sticker in the Cin Cin office, but also the several Star Wars geeks on staff. The sugar content feels quite high after you finish your glass, but it is not at all overly-sweet in your mouth as the bitterness of both amari balance things out and the bourbon provides a full-bodied backbone.

Welcome To The Dark Side

1.5oz Maker's Mark 46 Bourbon
1oz Amaro Averna
0.25oz Aperol
0.25oz St. Germain
Orange peel

Lightly muddle the orange peel in the mixing glass. Add ingredients, then ice and stir. Strain into a cocktail glass and garnish with a fresh orange peel, squeezing oils over the top of the glass.


If you're at all interested in grappa, or perhaps learning about a new spirit if you don't know what it is, Cin Cin is THE place to go, and all the staff are informative. It's not at all a spirit I know well, but I find myself stopping by there lately just to try a new kind. Head to Cin Cin soon if you can for both food and drink because they're both fantastic, or at the very least head there for a drink from Colin and take a turn to the Dark Side.

[[ See my post on amaro digestivos here ]]
[[ See my post on amaro aperivos here ]]
[[ See a buying guide for amaro here ]]

[[ See "The One Hit Wonder" from L'abattoir in Vancouver here ]]
[[ See "The Penny Farthing" from Pourhouse here ]]
[[ See an introduction to amaro  here ]]
[[ See "The Imperial Eagle" from Bourbon & Branch here ]]
[[ See "Sevilla" from Beretta here ]]
[[ See "Fallow Grave" from the Toronto Temperance Society here ]]
[[ See "The Black Prince" from Phil Ward here ]]
[[ See "Bad Apple" and "Jackson Ward" from Amor y Amargo here ]]
[[ See "The Four Horsemen" from Jay Jones at Shangri-La here ]]
[[ See Colin MacDougall from Blue Water Cafe here ]]
[[ See "Debbie Don't" from Dutch Kills here ]]
[[ See "Foolish Games" from Russel Davis here ]]
[[ See "Intro To Aperol" from Audrey Saunders at Pegu Club here ]]

Amaro April: "The Four Horsemen" from Jay Jones

Today and tomorrow we will be changing pace a little and looking at two very simple, classic-style cocktails using Averna. The first takes us to the Shangri-La Hotel in Vancouver where award-winning bartender, Jay Jones, gives us his "Four Horsemen."
Jones, or "BARJONESING" (who you can follow @BARJONESING on Twitter), is a veteran of the Vancouver scene, having been behind the wine, beer, and cocktail programs at some really great places in town, including Nu, Salt, Voya, the Donnelly Group, a five year stint at one of my favourites, West, and also co-created and opened Pourhouse in Gastown before heading to Shangri-La in early 2011, where you can now find him behind the bar at Market. He's a Certified Specialist of Spirits, a founding member of the Canadian Professional Bartenders Association, a contributing writer at Montecristo and Urban Diner magazines, a multiple award-winner (including a few Bartender of the Year awards, and the recently announced "Most Imaginative Bartender" by GQ Magazine), and despite only having the chance to be served by him once so far, I can say he's definitely one of the most talented bartenders I've had the pleasure of meeting. Needless to say, you should head to Market and meet Jay when you can, especially if you feel like learning a thing or two and enjoying a perfectly balanced cocktail.

As for his drink, it was originally created as a holiday offering over Christmas last year to "resound the assertive qualities of Maker's 46 in the spirit and architecture of a Manhattan," as Jones puts it. "It speaks not only to the bourbon, but allows each component to speak distinctly as an individual while simultaneously creating harmony with its colleagues." Entering 2012, which is of course when the Mayan calendar ends and therefore as some see it, The Apocalypse, Jones named his drink for the occasion after the harbingers of the Last Judgement as prophesized in the New Testament. Each of the four ingredients, or "The Four Horsemen of The Four Horsemen," are represented as follows:

War - Maker's 46 Kentucky Straight Bourbon - declares battle and charges through you

Death - Amaro Averna - your bittersweet demise; a pull towards the darkness

Conquest - Abricot de Roussillon - taunting with the sweet; a seduction of righteous victory

Famine - Angostura Bitters - the scent and taste of the bitter end approaches with certainty.


(Perhaps you understand the aforementioned "Most Imaginative Bartender")...

As for flavour, Jay explains:
"Bitterness is certainly essential to the structure, but also dictates the flow and complexity across the palate. Averna is the body of the drink - fattening the personality with sweet tones of coffee and chocolate. It's bitterness is amplified by a heavy dose of Angostura. I tried a variety of different aromatic bitters, but in the end, it was good 'ol Angostura that gave me the tone I sought. Abricot de Roussilon provides a very specific sensual nuance - not just expressing apricot, but also almond, coffee, coconut, plum, and cherry-like subtleties derived from its drupe genetics. [It's] complexity allows it to play immensely well with others."

The Four Horsemen

1.5oz Maker's 46 Bourbon
0.75oz Amaro Avera Siciliano
0.5oz Giffard Abricot de Roussilon
4 hard dashes Angostura Bitters

Combine all ingredients with ice in a mixing glass, stir gently for 15-20 seconds, then fine strain into a cocktail coupe. 
No garnish.

This is a nice departure from the mostly modern cocktails that we are seeing this month, and Jones hopes it will some day be looked upon as a modern classic. Take a trip to Market, have him make you one, and you be the judge.
Thanks to Jay Jones for his excellent contribution and for being such an important part of making Vancouver the cocktail destination it has become today!



See you tomorrow for another first-time trip for this blog, this time to Blue Water Cafe in Yaletown...

[[ Photography by Mark Prince Photography - @CoffeeGeek - (top) and Jay Jones (cocktail) ]]

[[ See my post on amaro digestivos here ]]
[[ See my post on amaro aperivos here ]]
[[ See a buying guide for amaro here ]]

[[ See "The One Hit Wonder" from L'abattoir in Vancouver here ]]
[[ See "The Penny Farthing" from Pourhouse here ]]
[[ See an introduction to amaro  here ]]
[[ See "The Imperial Eagle" from Bourbon & Branch here ]]
[[ See "Sevilla" from Beretta here ]]
[[ See "Fallow Grave" from the Toronto Temperance Society here ]]
[[ See "The Black Prince" from Phil Ward here ]]
[[ See "Bad Apple" and "Jackson Ward" from Amor y Amargo here ]]
[[ See Colin MacDougall from Blue Water Cafe here ]]
[[ See "Debbie Don't" from Dutch Kills here ]]
[[ See "Welcome to the Dark Side" from Cin Cin here ]]
[[ See "Foolish Games" from Russell Davis here ]]
[[ See "Intro To Aperol" from Audrey Saunders at Pegu Club here ]]

Amaro April: "Fallow Grave" from The Toronto Temperance Society

Today takes us to an entirely brand new destination for this blog - Toronto! While the city doesn't have the reputation or the scene for cocktails and mixology that New York, San Francisco, Seattle, or Vancouver has, it is not without a couple great bars and bartenders, and Robin Kaufman from the speakeasy-style Toronto Temperance Society has donated a brand new amaro cocktail for us to enjoy during Amaro April. A good example of what they're about, which is quite similar in spirit (pun intended) to New York speakeasies or Needle & Thread in Seattle, check out their House Rules.
I didn't have the pleasure of visiting the place myself, so I will pass the torch to my partner-in-crime - the lovely and talented Leah - who recently made the trip to T dot and not only asked Robin for an original cocktail, but also passed along her review...

"It was a relatively bad week for good alcohol. I was staying in Barrie, rather than Toronto, and as such, my only other bar experiences up to that point involved:

- An Irish Pub/Sports Bar that specialized in greasy dudes with Manwich-stained Polo's drinking draught (wherein I ordered a thoroughly underwhelming dry gin martini that was wet with cheap vermouth and regret)

- A charming local music venue full of suburban hipsters where I ordered Jack Daniels with no ice because it was literally the best thing I could see behind the bar. It was served in a plastic cup, and took me back to my late teens, where alcohol came in plastic cups, Pabst Blue Ribbon was served on ice, and Lucky Beer was 2$ a can. Memories, both misty and water-coloured. So, you can imagine how Sidecar and the subsequent visit to the Toronto Temperance Society was a most welcome delight.

I arrived early, following a long day of museums and history-dork stuff, and sat at the bar. Sidecar has a respectable cocktail menu, though the walk from the ROM and heat made me somewhat undecided. The friendly bartender, whose name escapes me, recommended a Sailor Jerry Sour which I ended up ordering, it was nice enough for a hot day (and just after 5:00), if not too sweet and dessert-y for my tastes. (Not that he can be faulted; when you're female and blonde and wear frilly dresses bartenders are right to assume you're looking for something sweet and light - or so I find) We talked briefly about Toronto tourist attractions (he recommended axe-throwing, which wasn't in the free 'Discover Toronto' guide I picked up from the airport), and I asked, politely, whether a visitor would be allowed to visit the TTS, above Sidecar.

And so I did. Through a little door and up a narrow staircase is the wondrous Toronto Temperance Society. It's a beautiful space, all dark wood and pastoral wallpaper, playing 20s-30's pop music, and nearly empty (it was early and a holiday weekend). I tried to decide what I wanted from their top notch menu of classic cocktails (with handy variations under each listing). The bartender, Robin (a fellow Vancouverite, incidentally), introduced the menu, and wanted to discuss my drink order – after a week of plastic cups of JD and $8 bottles of wine, finally, a real bartender - the kind who cares about what you're drinking as much as you do.

First, a side-note. TTS has a terrific selection. As a victim of the BC Liquor Distribution Board, such a selection is overwhelming. 

...Aaand, back to the review. Robin made me an original of his – the "Fallow Grave," the recipe for which you will find below. I requested Bourbon, and the "Fallow Grave" happened to be exactly what I was in the mood for-- Buffalo Trace, Amaro Ninino (a first for me – like tasty cough medicine), Crème Yvette, Bittermen's Grapefruit Bitters and Regan's Orange Bitters. (As an aside, isn't Bittermen's Grapefruit Bitters lovely? It's like proper Grapefruit, rather than the more synthetic tasting Fee's-- synthetics have their place, of course, like Joan Rivers' immovable face or 70's fabric that lasts until the end of time, but there's something to be said for subtlety). The "Fallow Grave" is a kindler, gentler Bourbon cocktail with interesting depth from the Amaro and the coriander of the Regan's Orange. It's floral, but not without balls. Robin thought it may be a little too Crème Yvette heavy, and you could back it off just a hair if you plan to make it yourself (which I think you should), or embrace the Crème Yvette - I think it's quite nice for a spring evening.

My second drink was another lovely surprise. Tromba Tequila, Dolin Sweet Vermouth, and Boker's Bitters. Three all new ingredients - all delicious. Tromba Tequila was surprisingly smooth and versatile, a little floral – interesting enough to sip on its own and adaptable enough that it would probably be a nice addition to nearly any Tequila cocktail. Dolin Vermouth may be one of my new favorites. A future of being a shuffleboard-playing blue-hair who drinks straight Vermouth seems pretty great with either Dolin Sweet or Dry. (Sorry. I've known a lot of Grandmas who drink a lot of Vermouth) - and the inclusion of delicious Boker's Bitters makes this drink exciting. TTS is generous with tasters, and I finished the evening off with a barrel-aged Boubon concoction with my newfound favorites – Dolin vermouth, Boker's bitters, and a bit of Fee's Peach. (See? Small quantities. The 70s leisure-suit lives.) 

And the TTS experience? Really, one of my favorites! The service is impeccable, the atmosphere is classic and the company is great. Don't be fooled by their membership-only policy – Robin, Oliver, and the other fellow who's name I didn't catch but who was kind enough of draw me a map are utterly without attitude or airs. The members-only policy, as I gather, is to maintain the unique atmosphere, and I would certainly say enjoying an amazing cocktail in civilized company without girls with orange tans and fake Coach bags all hopped up on flavored-vodka Flirtini's and their gold-chained man-friends ordering rounds of Hypnotiq for the table has a certain cache.

So, if you're visiting Toronto, put down that plastic cup of JD and take it from me – visit Sidecar, and maybe, if you ask nicely, you'll find yourself at the Temperance Society. Lucky you!

(In addition to drinking alcohol and writing, I make and enjoy movies. Follow me on my new Twitter: @traitorfilms)."

A note on ingredients: Creme Yvette is NOT the same as Creme de Violette. People often make this mistake. While they are somewhat similar, using violet flowers as flavour components, Yvette is much more complex, also using vanilla and other spices. The makers of St. Germain have created a new brand (after it being quite impossible to get anywhere since the late 1960's), but you'll be stuck with finding it in the states as far as I can tell. If anyone knows where to find it in Canada, please comment!
Amaro Nonino is available at Legacy, where it will run you $50. 

Regan's Bitters are available at Legacy for $11, and Bittermen's as well for $27 (they're only $16 at Gourmet Warehouse, though). 

Fallow Grave

1.75oz Buffalo Trace Bourbon

1oz Amaro Nonino

1-2 barspoons Creme Yvette

2-3 dashes Bittermen's Grapefruit Bitters

1 dash Regan's Orange Bitters #6

Stir all ingredients over ice and strain into a cocktail coupe. Flame a grapefruit peel over top. 

Thanks to Robin and TTS for the contribution!

[[ See my post on amaro digestivos here ]]
[[ See my post on amaro aperivos here ]]
[[ See a buying guide for amaro here ]]

[[ See "The One Hit Wonder" from L'abattoir in Vancouver here ]]
[[ See "The Penny Farthing" from Pourhouse here ]]
[[ See an introduction to amaro  here ]]
[[ See "The Imperial Eagle" from Bourbon & Branch here ]]
[[ See "Sevilla" from Beretta here ]]
[[ See "The Black Prince" from Phil Ward here ]]
[[ See "Bad Apple" and "Jackson Ward" from Amor y Amargo here ]]
[[ See "The Four Horsemen" from Jay Jones at Shangri-La here ]]
[[ See Colin MacDougall from Blue Water Cafe here ]]
[[ See "Debbie Don't" from Dutch Kills here ]]
[[ See "Welcome to the Dark Side" from Cin Cin here ]]
[[ See "Foolish Games" from Russell Davis here ]]
[[ See "Intro To Aperol" from Audrey Saunders at Pegu Club here ]] 

Amaro April: "The Imperial Eagle" From Bourbon & Branch

Last month we saw a creative cocktail from Jayson Wilde, the general manager at Bourbon & Branch, in which he infused Maraschino liqueur with Meyer lemons, as well as using blood orange syrup, cinnamon, and a black pepper tincture. This month, Jayson is simplifying things a bit, but still uses spice and fruit to play with both the base spirit - this time bourbon - and the modifier, amaro Averna. There are again a lot of elements here - the basic idea is a bourbon sour in which he's using ginger syrup and Averna to sweeten instead of just sugar. He's also using a traditional silver or Ramos Fizz framework, with the sour, spirit, sugar, egg, and bubbles combination, this time using ginger beer instead of just plain soda. Add the two elements together, with a little extra aroma and presentation using peach bitters, and you have a tasty and complex drink.

You can check out Jayson's "Blood Lust" cocktail along with a small review of Bourbon & Branch on this Maraschino March post.

A note on ingredients...
You can get the Eagle Rare 10 Year at the BC Liquor Stores, and it will run you $60. It's $30 or so in the states, and it's an excellent choice for the money. It's made by the Buffalo Trace distillery, so their regular BT bourbon would be a suitable substitution if you have to; I would not use too sweet or soft of a bourbon here (like Maker's Mark). As for the ginger beer, be sure to get a beer and not a ginger ale, which is much sweeter and less ginger-y. Bundaberg is Australian and I've never seen it here, but many markets, liquor stores, Whole Foods, and Gourmet Warehouse all sell good substitutes. Fee's peach bitters can be picked up at Gourmet Warehouse for $8.

The Imperial Eagle

2 oz. Eagle Rare 10 Year Single Barrel Bourbon

1 oz. Lemon Juice

0.5 oz. Ginger Syrup

0.5 oz. Averna

0.5 oz. Egg White

0.75oz Bundaberg Ginger Beer 

1 dash of Fee's Peach Bitters

Shake ingredients with ice, strain into a Collins glass.

Add the ginger beer over top as a float, then add an extra dash of the peach bitters on top of the foam.

[[ See my post on amaro digestivos here ]]
[[ See my post on amaro aperivos here ]]
[[ See a buying guide for amaro here ]]

[[ See "The One Hit Wonder" from L'abattoir in Vancouver here ]]
[[ See "The Penny Farthing" from Pourhouse here ]]
[[ See an introduction to amaro  here ]]
[[ See "Sevilla" from Beretta here ]]
[[ See "Fallow Grave" from the Toronto Temperance Society here ]]
[[ See "The Black Prince" from Phil Ward here ]]
[[ See "Bad Apple" and "Jackson Ward" from Amor y Amargo here ]]
[[ See "The Four Horsemen" from Jay Jones at Shangri-La here ]]
[[ See Colin MacDougall from Blue Water Cafe here ]]
[[ See "Debbie Don't" from Dutch Kills here ]]
[[ See "Welcome to the Dark Side" from Cin Cin here ]]
[[ See "Foolish Games" from Russell Davis here ]]
[[ See "Intro To Aperol" from Audrey Saunders at Pegu Club here ]] 

A Beginner's Guide To Bourbon Part 2: Buying Bourbon In B.C.

In Part 1 we discussed what makes bourbon bourbon, and now we're going to look at the major brands and bottlings you can typically find. I will mostly just discuss the ones widely available to us here in Canada at the government liquor stores. I have never tasted a "bad" bourbon, but going from Jim Beam White Label to Woodford Reserve is a definite jump in quality, as you will see. The good news is that the jump is much smaller than comparing a cheap brandy to a nice Cognac, or Bacardi white rum to Mount Gay Extra Old aged rum, etc. The below blurbs about each kind are my opinion, but I've taken into account the general consensus via other reviewing websites as well as spirit competitions. If I've never tasted a certain kind, I've just listed the tasting notes from competition judges and/or the average review online.


First, let's take a moment to discuss the general taste of bourbon for those of you who know nothing about it. Higher amounts of corn will bring a little more sweetness, opposed to rye which is drier and spicier, or malted barley which tastes, well... malty. Aging in the charred oak barrels smooths the alcoholic burn out a bit, add subtle smoke flavours, and you will typically also get some caramel, toffee, and vanilla notes. Depending on the rest of the mash and other specifics, you can also end up with flavours like citrus, berries, tobacco, leather, molasses, cinnamon, and tons of others. Bourbon is by far the easiest whiskey to drink, and as I've often said, a great place to start if you don't have a good palate for alcohol yet.

Alright, now onto the choices...

$40 Or Less

Jim Beam White Label - $25.50 - The cheapest bourbon you'll find, but it's actually not bad. It mixes well in cocktails that aren't spirit-forward, it's not super harsh, and a great place to start if you don't want to spend much. 
Jim Beam Red Stag - $27.50 - This is a Jim Beam bourbon flavoured with black cherry. It tastes more like a liqueur and isn't worth your time (if you want to mix cherry and bourbon, just add fresh cherries to your bourbon). It doesn't belong on this list, I just wanted to make sure you know what it is.
Wild Turkey - $29 - This is a very rough bourbon with more rye character than Jim Beam, and as such it packs more of a punch in mixed drinks. It's pretty harsh to sip, but works great with juice. I usually choose it over Jim Beam White Label for a cheap option unless I want to sip something or make more subtle cocktails.
Bulleit Frontier Bourbon - $35 - spicier, drier bourbon that's still smooth and mixes really well in cocktails. Very high rye content as well. I don't LOVE it, but it seems to be a typical bourbon of choice for some really knowledgeable bartenders, and that's a good sign.
Maker's Mark - $35-40 - One of the classics, for sure. To me, it's so sweet and smooth that it basically tastes like candy. This can be a good thing or a bad thing, depending on what you want to do with it. It's almost too smooth for my taste, but is a great sipper, and a perfect place to start if you want to get into bourbon.
Buffalo Trace - $40 - excellent, multi-use bourbon from the oldest distillery in the U.S. Higher rye content gives a little more spice and character. Probably the best bourbon for your money.

Over $40

Knob Creek 9 Year Old Small Batch - $49 - this is sort of like a higher-end Maker's Mark in some ways in that it's quite sweet and very smooth, but mixing a lot of cocktails may call for a more ballsy profile. It is definitely delicious, though, and makes an awesome Old-Fashioned. It's made by the Jim Beam distillery.
Woodford Reserve - $49 - This is probably my favourite bourbon for sipping. It's complex and interesting, but also very smooth and soft in your mouth. If you drink a fair bit already and want something nice, I would point you here or to Buffalo Trace, as they're both not as smooth and sweet as Marker's Mark or Knob Creek, but in my opinion are more exciting.
Basil Hayden's - $50 - another small batch bourbon from the Jim Beam distillery, this one is another high-rye content bourbon with pepper and citrus notes that you don't get in most others.
Maker's Mark 46 - $55 - the higher-end Maker's Mark has a heavier taste with more caramel, spice, and wood flavours. Its finish is longer and makes for a better sipper, but will also mix well in cocktails.
Booker's - $56 - a very heavy, rounded bourbon that packs a huge punch (127 proof). It's another Jim Beam small batch bourbon, and has more wood and smoke character than others. It makes a fantastic Manhattan that will knock you on your ass.
Knob Creek Single Barrel - $59 - the high-end offering from Knob Creek, which is a high-end offering from Jim Beam, and lives up to this hierarchy. Reviews are consistently good to outstanding, with more spice notes showing up, and surprisingly smooth for its 120 proof bottling.
Eagle Rare - $60 - a high-end offering from the Buffalo Trace distillery has more spice, nut, and fruit notes, but still hits pretty hard. Reviewed often as the best value you will find, but that's by American price standards where it's about $30. Welcome to our lives in B.C.
Ridgemont Reserve 1792 Barrel Select - $75 - reviews are good for the most part, but not as consistent as say Eagle Rare or Knob Creek Single Barrel, which makes me nervous for how much more it costs. Tobacco, fruit, and even tea have shown up on tasting notes.
Pappy Van Winkle's 20 Year - $175 - This is very well-reviewed, but I'm not sure anything is worth that price-point. Long-aged whiskeys will typically show more wood-character and complexity, and this one was reviewed by Wine Enthusiast as "huge and almost chewable, and the palate is tremendously buttery with some sherry notes, a dash of dried fruits, and some rich, creamy vanilla." Also reviewed as a very dry bourbon (meaning less sweet).

That's a lot of information, but take from it that even $25 will get you a bottle suitable for mixing, and $35-40 will get you a great bourbon suitable for anything. If you're just trying to get into bourbon, I'd suggest (in order of price, not quality) Jim Beam, Maker's Mark, and Knob Creek. If you already like whiskey and want something new, my personal favourites are Buffalo Trace and Woodford Reserve, but as you can see above, there are a lot of good options. Four Roses is an awesome bourbon too, but you'll have to get it in the U.S. or buy it over-priced at Legacy. And as always, if you make it down to the states, do your buying there, because most whiskey costs about 40% less. Such is our lives in Canada. 

I encourage you to make comments below and agree/disagree, or better yet - name your favourite bourbon. Also name some bourbons you like that aren't on the above list!

A Beginner's Guide To Bourbon Part 1: What Is Bourbon?

Arguably the most currently popular whiskey is bourbon. This probably isn't the case among experienced drinkers and bartenders, as rye is called for more often in classic drinks and often has a more complex flavour profile, and among spirit aficionados I imagine that single malt Scotch is the whisky of choice. Bourbon is popular with casual drinkers for a couple reasons: 1) it's sweeter and easier to drink than other whiskeys, 2) Donald Draper often asks for it on Mad Men, and let's face it, that show is in part responsible for more and more people getting into drinking, and 3) in Canada, good bars will serve bourbon in most cocktails because it's way more interesting and delicious than Canadian whisky, and American rye is REALLY expensive here.

((A quick note on Mr. Draper: his consistent ordering of "Old-Fashioned's" has definitely increased the number of people who order that drink when at a bar. The unfortunate part is that most bars and bartenders have no idea how to make one properly, and I'm sure most people ordering it won't know the difference either. Everyone makes this cocktail differently, but there are some definite don't's (adding soda, muddling fruit, using granulated sugar but not mixing well, not adding bitters, etc). Lastly, the original Old-Fashioned cocktail (which was a style of drink, not one drink specifically) used Cognac, then eventually used rye, then eventually typically used bourbon. That leaves us where we are today.))

What is bourbon? In my Beginner's Guide to Whiskey Part 1 we discussed how whiskey is made and where it came from, and in my Beginner's Guide to Whiskey Part 2, I briefly stated the regulations on what can be called bourbon. Here they are in detail (as stated for North America):
- made from a grain mixture that is at least 51% corn
- aged in new, charred-oak barrels
- distilled to no more than 160 proof
- entered into the barrel at no more than 125 proof
- bottled at at least 80 proof
- if aged for a minimum of 2 years, does not have colouring, flavouring, or any other spirit, it may be called "straight"
- if "straight," and aged for under 4 years, the age must be labelled 
- the age stated on the label must be of the youngest whiskey in the bottle (not counting the age of any added neutral grain spirits that is labelled as "blended")
- if labelled "blended," it may contain colouring, flavouring, and other spirits, but must contain at least 51% "straight" bourbon

That's a lot of rules, right? Bourbon has one of the more detailed and strict set of regulations, but this is good, because it means you the consumer are getting what you're paying for. If these regulations don't exist, I could mix cheap vodka with my own urine, colour it brown, then sell the bottle and label it "bourbon," and if you didn't know better you'd be in for a fun surprise. This is the issue with certain products such as absinthe, where there are no real regulations and it becomes a challenge to find the real thing.

While bourbon can be made anywhere in the United States, its history began in Kentucky, and if made there, the bourbon will be labelled as such. The history of the spirit is unclear, but the typical story is that a pioneer Baptist minister named Elijah Craig distilled a corn mash and aged it in oak casks. The first bourbons were created in Bourbon County in Kentucky, and this lead to giving the spirit its name. All stories are incredulous, however, and in all likelihood people were just distilling whatever was around, and in Kentucky there happens to be a lot of corn. Spirits were being aged in Europe for at least a hundred years before bourbon made its first recorded appearances.

Bourbon is one of the few whiskeys that holds no stock in the particular age length (opposed to Scotch, for example), but rather just in acheiving a good balance of flavours. In fact, aging a bourbon too long can make a poor-tasting product. Basically all straight bourbons use the "sour mash" method, where distillers add some of the previous batch to the new batch to maintain a certain pH balance - similar to making sourdough bread.

Tennesee Whiskey is technically bourbon because it holds to all the same regulations, except of course that it must be made in Tennesee. However, as I mentioned in my previous beginner's guide, most of those distillers like to brand their product as being its own type of whiskey (plus they have an extra charcoal filtering stage). 

In the next post I'll go through each type of bourbon generally available to us here in B.C. and give some tasting notes and suggestions. Then to top off our bourbon talk, I'll show you how to make an Old-Fashioned - properly.